Panama Art: Folk Art at Casco Viejo: Paluula´s Feathers

Panama, Casco Antiguo
Casco Viejo, San Felipe

Paluula’s Feathers Painting at Casco Viejo

Blog Contribution by Robert (Bob) Hardin
Pictures by Iranovy Grenald

He paints feathers.   Beautifully.   Delicately. 

    Arguably Casco Viejo’s most popular artist with tourists, Hercilo Tejada–whose Kuna Indian name is Paluuala (pronounced Paw-WAL-ah)–has another talent, too.

      He plays beautiful music on the tiny clay ocarinas on which he also paints Kuna designs.   His haunting rendition of La Vie en Rose has entranced countless visitors at the beginning of Avenida Central parking lot adjacent to the Government Building you will see a nice Plaza where Paluuala is working with beautiful crafts and paintings.      

       The amazing performance is his Pied Piper’s call to look at his display of feathers.   Most days tourists gather to watch his concentration as he paints feathers from the Darien Provence which he keeps in a small bag alongside his chair.   Few would guess that this artist master has been at it for only three years.

        Painting and music are Kuna talents, and Paluuala (”Spirit of the Living Tree”) learned from family members in the San Blas, though he now lives in a Kuna neighborhood near the Bridge of the Americas. 

 
        A feather from various Darien birds including ducks will take up to an hour to paint in oil, and depending on size, sell for $5 to $15, mounted and ready for framing.   “It took a lot of practice,” he recalls the learning curve.   He started with designs similar to those on molas, but found that”designs from nature were more popular.”

 
         The ocarinas are mostly meant to be displayed as curiosities back home, though he says anyone can learn to play as beautifully as he does.  It ”takes a lot of practice” too.

 

Panama Events: Wine Tasting at Super Gourmet in Casco Viejo, Panama

Panama, Casco Antiguo

Casco Viejo, San Felipe

 

Last Friday Casco Viejo´s “usual suspects” gathered around the fire (Lorelei´s Super Gourmet) to enjoy the amazing flavors from Argentinean Wine. This time, it was Quara, which is a hilarious name if you are a Panamanian. Quara is how we call the $0.25 coin. So is it really wine for a quara? I´m sure those guys never even thought about it when thinking to bring their wines in Panama. A bit of marketing research would have spared them of a lot of jokes, which now they´ll just have to endure with good spirit!

 

Name apart, the wine was fantastic. We learned a lot, drank a lot.  But the best was to be sitting there, again, around the fire, with good friends and neighbors, a great ambiance!

 

Thumbs up Lorelei, thanks for organizing it!

Panama Community: a sustainable Casco Viejo.

Panama, Casco Viejo
Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

For some months, we´ve been renting a small space in Casco Viejo to an organization called Aprojusan. With such a confusing name, no one knew really what they did, but they where nice people and the lease was arranged. A few days ago we learned that it is basically a mini children´s center where kids from the the area could go after school and work on their homework and receive art classes. Their work is great, it is so simple but yet so important.

We walked into their “office” yesterday, and it was full of kids and color everywhere: their paintings on the wall, they where doing some mobiles hanging from ropes, activity everywhere. We knew at least half of the kids that were there, smiling, having a good time, but more importantly, out of the street.

It was also an important week to get to know Aprojusan (Asociacion pro juventud? they should change their name, who is their marketing genius???). It just happened that Fundacion Calicanto had it´s board of directors renewed a couple of days ago and the meeting with new members was inspiring. The Foundation is now getting itself into a position of being able to handle more projects and involve more Casco Antiguo residents. Old ongoing projects such as the trainning of women in hotel school (Tagua) which has graduated at least 50 girls so far (which are currently working, by the way), or the art lessons for children and the beach cleanings will be kept and hopefully increased.

New projects such as the urban agriculture project are being added. In the meeting there where several things all Casco Antiguo residents agreed on, but the most important point was that Casco Antiguo is probably one of the best places to implement a unique (in Panama) concept of a sustainable neighborhood.

It is already happening, as we can see by the work of Aprojunsa, Fundacion Calicanto, the work some of the churches do in the community and the many individuals who support directly other associations such as the Scouts, some local schools or children. I can tell you, this is highly uncommon in Panama. Usually we tend to scream to the government: hey! you need to fix this! and then turn around into our own day to day doing nothing ourselves. This is the complete opposite. There is something fundamentally powerful when a community comes together and just get things done. Even if the government “jumps in” afterwards, the dynamic is different.

It reminds us that the power still is - despite what others say - in your hands.

Speaking of hands, these are pictures from the art center:

 

Panama Investment: All roads lead to Panama

 Panama, Casco Viejo
Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

I came across PanAmcham´s latest magazine called “Business” (Panamcham is the Panamanian American Chamber of Commerce) which is titled All Roads Lead to Panama.  I was just in Rome, so this obviously caught my attention.  There is no way we can compare head to head with Rome, however some fundamentals about the comparison seem right. Rome was at the center of its Empire and was an eclectic, vibrant community. Commerce was easy as the roman roads gave good access and the ocean wasn´t too far out, it was a good meeting point for people all around the known world.

Proportions aside, Panama has almost the same characteristics. It has always been a crossroad between oceans and worlds. Panamanians owe a lot to its geographical position, which has literally shaped the nation. Today, Panama is becoming almost a little Hong Kong mixed with Costa Rica. Copa has made sure it developed as the hub of the Americas, and other airlines have seen the convenience of a country that is literally in the middle of everything.

One of the pieces that caught my eye was the one on DHL in Panama. According to the piece, Panama is hosting DHL´s largest hub in Central America. They move about 5,000 packages per hour, an increase of 250% on their previous shipping capacity. They have a brand new 83,000 ft2 hub which cost $4.5 million and includes all the new technology DHL could afford, which probably is a lot. As I´ve streched out in other blogs, this is huge for such a small country (we are only 3 million people). And they aren´t the only ones moving or that have moved regional offices here (Caterpillar, Procter and Gamble, Aventis, Dell, between others).

But think about it: serving the region through Panama is hardly a new concept. The Spanish crown did it back in 1542 moving gold from Peru to Spain or supplies to all the colonies. The railroad moved gold through Panama from California and back up. The Colon Free Trade zone moves all sorts of goods from all around the world, specially China. New ports have been installed, the airport has been remodelled. Now we have DHL, Maersk and other companies enjoying the same benefits the Spanish had almost 500 years ago.

It is good to know some things never change! if you are interested in the article or in AMCHAM or in doing business in Panama, please visit their website at: http://www.panamcham.com/

Panama Real Estate: Cinta Costera moving forward.

 Panama, Casco Viejo
Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

Every Sunday I do my grocery shop trip to the “outsides”. “Las Afueras” in Spanish, were all the areas outside Casco Viejo. They used to be a mix between country houses (Bella Vista), cattle farm (Paitilla) and mangrove. Either riding on a bus or in a car, I pass by Avenida Balboa which was built on top of all these beauties in the name of progress. My mind wanders back to the historic picture I have in my office and how different both landscape and culture where changed when the city grew.

Finally, and almost with 50 years delay, the country decided to build a coastal park to recover some of the green spaces we lost as a city. And maybe even the beach culture? well, only time will tell.

An ambitious project no one really knew if the company would be able to deliver in three years. But to our surprise, the Cinta Costera (coast strip) at Panama´s Balboa Avenue is moving forward and fast. Regardless of the many comments regarding the percentage of actual green area vs cement and plazas or the origin of the funding for the huge work, I have to say that Odebrecht has done a great job getting things done on  record time.

Passing by Avenida Balboa yesterday, you could see the huge pipes on site, ready to go!

From Paitilla to Casco Viejo, this project aims to build a huge strip with extra traffic lanes but also with parks and other recreational areas. But the true underlying value of the cinta costera is that it will cover all the pipes to re direct the sewer system and clean Panama´s bay. In the last few weeks, the project has been in the eye of the hurricane because of a re design of the percentage of green areas vs cement areas (parking and plazas). It has also been claimed that the government intends to charge a tax to the areas that benefit directly from it. Both issues have been in the papers non stop, as the civil society and the government look for a middle point, but the one undiscussed benefit is the cleanning of the bay, which will benefit the entire province.

Once the cinta costera is completed, it is just a matter of time to be able to enjoy the coast as our parents did in the fifties. Back then, there was a strip of beach and residents could go for a swim or just a relax afternoon. For Casco Viejo, where we still have beaches (Panama´s best kept secret!) and even a small surf break this is nothing but good news.

Panama Art: Canal Zone documentary competing in Panama´s Bienale to be shown at the Canal Museum in Casco Viejo

 

 

Panama, Casco Viejo
Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

I just got this email from the organizers of the Panama Bienale. They´ll be showing part of the work at the Canal Museum in September. Don´t miss it!

On September 11th, at the museum´s auditorioum, they´ll show  “Canal Zone” from the US filmaker Frederick Wiseman. It will portrait the life of americans in Panama back in 1976: how they lived, worked, both as civilians and in the military. Back then, they where called “zonians”, US citizens but attached to Panama in a way. Nor here nor there. Learn more in the websites below!

En septiembre, la Bienal presenta el documental “Canal Zone”

 

El día 11 de septiembre, la Bienal presentará por primera vez en Panamá el documental “Canal Zone” del reconocido cineasta estadounidense Frederick Wiseman. La presentación se llevará a cabo en el auditorio del Museo del Canal, gracias a la colaboración del Museo y al patrocinio de la entidad bancaria UBS AG.

El documental trata sobre los norteamericanos que en 1976 vivían y trabajaban en la Zona del Canal, mostrando cómo era su vida, incluyendo tanto aspectos del gobierno civil, como el trabajo de los militares, y en general retratando la sociedad en la que vivían los llamados Zonians. Wiseman ha sido reconocido en las últimas tres décadas como uno de los más importantes cineastas de los Estados Unidos. La estética de Wiseman pertenece a la tradición de los documentales del llamado cine directo, que mantiene una postura de “observación pura”, enfatizando la filmación continua de conversaciones entre personas y de rutinas de su vida cotidiana, sin música, entrevistas ni narración en off.

Enlace a la página web de Wiseman (en inglés): http://www.zipporah.com/

Más información sobre Wiseman (en inglés) en la página de The Museum of Broadcast Communications http://www.museum.tv/archives/etv
/W/htmlW/wisemanfred/wisemanfred.htm

Consulte el programa de la 8ª Bienal en nuestra página web: www.bienalpanama.org

 

Coming back home to Casco Viejo after an European “Grand Tour”

 Panama, Casco Viejo,
Casco Antiguo, San Felipe.

I apologize for not letting you know I was going to dissapear for two weeks or so. I just came back from my honeymoon! The “grand tour” included Switzerland, Italy and London (although only for a night). Clara and Iranovy made a great job keeping the blog up while I was too busy having fun with my sweet best half. Thanks!

Now that I have sort of come back (my brain isn´t yet convinced) I have yet to re organize my thoughts about all the things I want to write about. I have great articles coming up about the lessons learned in those fantastic historic cities of Europe and what makes them not only special buy valuable.

Although, I have to say… coming back home to Casco Viejo made me smile and relax. This is home.

And a home with tomatoes!!!! I know most of you must be sick by now of my tomato fixation, but I promess to widen the obsession to chili peper (already planted one), ginger, garlic, oregano and a weird fruit I got recently called Granadilla.

For those who do enjoy my tomato fixation, I am very happy to report that during my abscence, my plant produced 3 super fantastic tomatoes and at my arrival it had 4 more going. Very much enjoyed in our breakfasts. By the way, one of the huge elements in European life (at least in the 3 countries we got to visit) was urban agriculture. Italy, chaotic and beautiful, was sprouting lemons, herbs, lettuces and who knows what from every balcony and roof terrace. But I´m getting myself ahead, this is part of the series I´ll be preparing this weekend!

For now, just a pictures of my beloved tomatos before they fall into my cooking pan…

Panama Event: Fiesta de la Música

Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

Panama City, Panama

There are advantages to living in Casco Viejo when a major event is being held there. Tonight, for example, residents and tourists can visit Casa Cor, the designer showcase which is next to the Teatro Nacional. Hours are Tuesday thru Thursday from 4 to 9 pm. On the weekends, Friday thru Sunday, the hours are noon to 9pm. Casa Cor closes 13 July. For the Fete de la Musique, Panama 2008, tonight the opening concert is at 8pm in the Teatro Nacional. As residents, we just walk a few blocks for both events. For those who come by car, the big municipal parking is across from both venues.

Saturday is the big day. For Escenario Tropical, wander over to Plaza Herrera about 2pm to hear Bajareque, DJ Black, Scardem Fish y Suppose, Renato, Sociedad Anónima, Esencia Latina, Los Beachers, Orquesta Yare, La K´Shamba, Los Combos Nacionales, OM Kalsum de Egipto, Mala Hierba, Grupo de Alemania, Yomira Jones, Alejandro Lagrota, Carla Lambogia and Javier Medina. This scene goes on until after 9 pm, if you want a late night scene, La Casona de Brujas is a few steps from Plaza Herrera. Stop in for a beer or wine.

For those thirsting for a more classical venue, at Anita Villalaz, the small theater in Plaza Francia, from 4pm to 8:30, you can sit and enjoy the performances of Coro Música Viva, Larena Franco Brazil, Francisco Omar Mejia, Orquesta de Camara Univerisity of Panama. Ending the evening for classical music is the Filarmonica De La University of Panama.

In Plaza Catedral, for escenario Típico, starting at 3pm to 9pm you can hear Yomira Jones, Cantadera, Victor Bernal, Abdiel Nunez, Samy y Sandra Sandoval and Osvaldo Ayala.

In another area of Plaza Catedral is jazz featuring Trio Innova, Napolitan Banda, Priscila Moreno, Dubarran, Carlos Garnett and Wax Taylor.

The hours are 3pm to 9:15 when the last performance is scheduled.

Then check out the parking lot near the Teatro Nacional for the rock bands. Some of the performers are Rabanes, Sr Loop, Maleza, Carlos Mendez, Audriyala, Son Azul, Papo Vecino, Pepe Calavera, Shorty & Slim, Kloss, Mabi and Jam de La Paz.

If you want to have a bite to eat at one of the three restaurants on the plaza, wander over to Plaza Bolivar about 2pm. Some new musical talent is being showcased. Amith leads off, followed by Mario Vilar, Medium, Cheo and Estampa Latina, and Agua de Pipa. Only X Crew winds the evening up around 7pm.

Wait, there is more……..at 2pm on Saturday Banda de Música de Laesc. Pedro Pablo Sanchez de la Chorrera is playing then at 4pm Banda de Música de La Universidad de Panama will perform.

Last year, we wandered from plaza to plaza and had a great time. Ran into friends and neighbors. Some brought the kids and doggies. Even if there are a few raindrops, nothing can dampen the day. So come on out, bring the camera, lots of photos ops are guaranteed. We should give a big thank you to La Alianza francesa de Panama in association with the Oficina del Casco Antiguo who have made this cultural event possible. Thanks everyone!

Panama Art: Photographer’s Eye

Casco Viejo, San Felipe

Panama City, Panama

As many times as I have walked the Calles of Casco Antiguo, the un-restored buildings in their dilapidated condition are endlessly fascinating. How many times have I pulled out the digital camera to capture the essence of a fading facade? Many. Panama’s patrimony with their walls of hand hewn stone such as the Arco Chato and Compañía de Jesus, are the subject for countless photographers as is Club Union, a hulking shell on the Bahia, once the former social club of Panama’s elite. Scenes from the upcoming James Bond movie were shot at Club Union as hundreds of locals milled around in cocktail attire waiting for their cue. Kim Corson, former powerhouse attorney turned adventuring sailor, focused his camera a few days ago on the old city. Whether graffiti was found framed or as a mural, both intrigued. In future blogs, more of Casco Antiguo’s fading beauties beckoning to be restored will be featured.

Panama Interviews: Casco Viejo Bien Cuidao’s

Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

Panama City, Panama

Panama Interviews: Casco Viejo Bien Cuidao’s

All over Panama City, the one thing that is rarely missing on the streets where there is parking is a bien cuidao, Casco Viejo is no exception. The phrase, bien cuidado means “good lookout” which gets shorten to bien cuidao. The bien cuidaos are always on our streets doing the odd jobs such as washing cars for residents, carrying groceries or directing tourists to nearby shops and restaurants. They also provide maintenance services for the cars such as polishing, interior cleaning, etc. or painting buildings around their block.

We had the opportunity to catch one of our bien cuidao’s in Casco Viejo cleaning a car that had tar all over the exterior. His name is Julio, he is 35 years old and we call him “El Lobo”. Julio lives in Don Bosco, Terramar and rides one of the Diablo Rojos to work every morning to do whatever he can to earn some honest money.

Julio likes Casco Viejo because it a peaceful and quiet place. In addition to cleaning and taking care of the cars in our neighborhood he also gets some small construction jobs. “This is just a temporary job” he said “the idea is to do something”; he would like to work on a construction project as a contractor.

So, the next time you park on a street guarded by a bien cuidao, for twenty five cents, he’ll help you park and keep an eye on your car. For $2.00, get the exterior washed. You’ll be helping him make a simple living.