Panama Real Estate: Cinta Costera moving forward.

 Panama, Casco Viejo
Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

Every Sunday I do my grocery shop trip to the “outsides”. “Las Afueras” in Spanish, were all the areas outside Casco Viejo. They used to be a mix between country houses (Bella Vista), cattle farm (Paitilla) and mangrove. Either riding on a bus or in a car, I pass by Avenida Balboa which was built on top of all these beauties in the name of progress. My mind wanders back to the historic picture I have in my office and how different both landscape and culture where changed when the city grew.

Finally, and almost with 50 years delay, the country decided to build a coastal park to recover some of the green spaces we lost as a city. And maybe even the beach culture? well, only time will tell.

An ambitious project no one really knew if the company would be able to deliver in three years. But to our surprise, the Cinta Costera (coast strip) at Panama´s Balboa Avenue is moving forward and fast. Regardless of the many comments regarding the percentage of actual green area vs cement and plazas or the origin of the funding for the huge work, I have to say that Odebrecht has done a great job getting things done on  record time.

Passing by Avenida Balboa yesterday, you could see the huge pipes on site, ready to go!

From Paitilla to Casco Viejo, this project aims to build a huge strip with extra traffic lanes but also with parks and other recreational areas. But the true underlying value of the cinta costera is that it will cover all the pipes to re direct the sewer system and clean Panama´s bay. In the last few weeks, the project has been in the eye of the hurricane because of a re design of the percentage of green areas vs cement areas (parking and plazas). It has also been claimed that the government intends to charge a tax to the areas that benefit directly from it. Both issues have been in the papers non stop, as the civil society and the government look for a middle point, but the one undiscussed benefit is the cleanning of the bay, which will benefit the entire province.

Once the cinta costera is completed, it is just a matter of time to be able to enjoy the coast as our parents did in the fifties. Back then, there was a strip of beach and residents could go for a swim or just a relax afternoon. For Casco Viejo, where we still have beaches (Panama´s best kept secret!) and even a small surf break this is nothing but good news.

Panama Art: Canal Zone documentary competing in Panama´s Bienale to be shown at the Canal Museum in Casco Viejo

 

 

Panama, Casco Viejo
Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

I just got this email from the organizers of the Panama Bienale. They´ll be showing part of the work at the Canal Museum in September. Don´t miss it!

On September 11th, at the museum´s auditorioum, they´ll show  “Canal Zone” from the US filmaker Frederick Wiseman. It will portrait the life of americans in Panama back in 1976: how they lived, worked, both as civilians and in the military. Back then, they where called “zonians”, US citizens but attached to Panama in a way. Nor here nor there. Learn more in the websites below!

En septiembre, la Bienal presenta el documental “Canal Zone”

 

El día 11 de septiembre, la Bienal presentará por primera vez en Panamá el documental “Canal Zone” del reconocido cineasta estadounidense Frederick Wiseman. La presentación se llevará a cabo en el auditorio del Museo del Canal, gracias a la colaboración del Museo y al patrocinio de la entidad bancaria UBS AG.

El documental trata sobre los norteamericanos que en 1976 vivían y trabajaban en la Zona del Canal, mostrando cómo era su vida, incluyendo tanto aspectos del gobierno civil, como el trabajo de los militares, y en general retratando la sociedad en la que vivían los llamados Zonians. Wiseman ha sido reconocido en las últimas tres décadas como uno de los más importantes cineastas de los Estados Unidos. La estética de Wiseman pertenece a la tradición de los documentales del llamado cine directo, que mantiene una postura de “observación pura”, enfatizando la filmación continua de conversaciones entre personas y de rutinas de su vida cotidiana, sin música, entrevistas ni narración en off.

Enlace a la página web de Wiseman (en inglés): http://www.zipporah.com/

Más información sobre Wiseman (en inglés) en la página de The Museum of Broadcast Communications http://www.museum.tv/archives/etv
/W/htmlW/wisemanfred/wisemanfred.htm

Consulte el programa de la 8ª Bienal en nuestra página web: www.bienalpanama.org

 

Coming back home to Casco Viejo after an European “Grand Tour”

 Panama, Casco Viejo,
Casco Antiguo, San Felipe.

I apologize for not letting you know I was going to dissapear for two weeks or so. I just came back from my honeymoon! The “grand tour” included Switzerland, Italy and London (although only for a night). Clara and Iranovy made a great job keeping the blog up while I was too busy having fun with my sweet best half. Thanks!

Now that I have sort of come back (my brain isn´t yet convinced) I have yet to re organize my thoughts about all the things I want to write about. I have great articles coming up about the lessons learned in those fantastic historic cities of Europe and what makes them not only special buy valuable.

Although, I have to say… coming back home to Casco Viejo made me smile and relax. This is home.

And a home with tomatoes!!!! I know most of you must be sick by now of my tomato fixation, but I promess to widen the obsession to chili peper (already planted one), ginger, garlic, oregano and a weird fruit I got recently called Granadilla.

For those who do enjoy my tomato fixation, I am very happy to report that during my abscence, my plant produced 3 super fantastic tomatoes and at my arrival it had 4 more going. Very much enjoyed in our breakfasts. By the way, one of the huge elements in European life (at least in the 3 countries we got to visit) was urban agriculture. Italy, chaotic and beautiful, was sprouting lemons, herbs, lettuces and who knows what from every balcony and roof terrace. But I´m getting myself ahead, this is part of the series I´ll be preparing this weekend!

For now, just a pictures of my beloved tomatos before they fall into my cooking pan…

Panama Event: Fiesta de la Música

Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

Panama City, Panama

There are advantages to living in Casco Viejo when a major event is being held there. Tonight, for example, residents and tourists can visit Casa Cor, the designer showcase which is next to the Teatro Nacional. Hours are Tuesday thru Thursday from 4 to 9 pm. On the weekends, Friday thru Sunday, the hours are noon to 9pm. Casa Cor closes 13 July. For the Fete de la Musique, Panama 2008, tonight the opening concert is at 8pm in the Teatro Nacional. As residents, we just walk a few blocks for both events. For those who come by car, the big municipal parking is across from both venues.

Saturday is the big day. For Escenario Tropical, wander over to Plaza Herrera about 2pm to hear Bajareque, DJ Black, Scardem Fish y Suppose, Renato, Sociedad Anónima, Esencia Latina, Los Beachers, Orquesta Yare, La K´Shamba, Los Combos Nacionales, OM Kalsum de Egipto, Mala Hierba, Grupo de Alemania, Yomira Jones, Alejandro Lagrota, Carla Lambogia and Javier Medina. This scene goes on until after 9 pm, if you want a late night scene, La Casona de Brujas is a few steps from Plaza Herrera. Stop in for a beer or wine.

For those thirsting for a more classical venue, at Anita Villalaz, the small theater in Plaza Francia, from 4pm to 8:30, you can sit and enjoy the performances of Coro Música Viva, Larena Franco Brazil, Francisco Omar Mejia, Orquesta de Camara Univerisity of Panama. Ending the evening for classical music is the Filarmonica De La University of Panama.

In Plaza Catedral, for escenario Típico, starting at 3pm to 9pm you can hear Yomira Jones, Cantadera, Victor Bernal, Abdiel Nunez, Samy y Sandra Sandoval and Osvaldo Ayala.

In another area of Plaza Catedral is jazz featuring Trio Innova, Napolitan Banda, Priscila Moreno, Dubarran, Carlos Garnett and Wax Taylor.

The hours are 3pm to 9:15 when the last performance is scheduled.

Then check out the parking lot near the Teatro Nacional for the rock bands. Some of the performers are Rabanes, Sr Loop, Maleza, Carlos Mendez, Audriyala, Son Azul, Papo Vecino, Pepe Calavera, Shorty & Slim, Kloss, Mabi and Jam de La Paz.

If you want to have a bite to eat at one of the three restaurants on the plaza, wander over to Plaza Bolivar about 2pm. Some new musical talent is being showcased. Amith leads off, followed by Mario Vilar, Medium, Cheo and Estampa Latina, and Agua de Pipa. Only X Crew winds the evening up around 7pm.

Wait, there is more……..at 2pm on Saturday Banda de Música de Laesc. Pedro Pablo Sanchez de la Chorrera is playing then at 4pm Banda de Música de La Universidad de Panama will perform.

Last year, we wandered from plaza to plaza and had a great time. Ran into friends and neighbors. Some brought the kids and doggies. Even if there are a few raindrops, nothing can dampen the day. So come on out, bring the camera, lots of photos ops are guaranteed. We should give a big thank you to La Alianza francesa de Panama in association with the Oficina del Casco Antiguo who have made this cultural event possible. Thanks everyone!

Panama Art: Photographer’s Eye

Casco Viejo, San Felipe

Panama City, Panama

As many times as I have walked the Calles of Casco Antiguo, the un-restored buildings in their dilapidated condition are endlessly fascinating. How many times have I pulled out the digital camera to capture the essence of a fading facade? Many. Panama’s patrimony with their walls of hand hewn stone such as the Arco Chato and Compañía de Jesus, are the subject for countless photographers as is Club Union, a hulking shell on the Bahia, once the former social club of Panama’s elite. Scenes from the upcoming James Bond movie were shot at Club Union as hundreds of locals milled around in cocktail attire waiting for their cue. Kim Corson, former powerhouse attorney turned adventuring sailor, focused his camera a few days ago on the old city. Whether graffiti was found framed or as a mural, both intrigued. In future blogs, more of Casco Antiguo’s fading beauties beckoning to be restored will be featured.

Panama Interviews: Casco Viejo Bien Cuidao’s

Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

Panama City, Panama

Panama Interviews: Casco Viejo Bien Cuidao’s

All over Panama City, the one thing that is rarely missing on the streets where there is parking is a bien cuidao, Casco Viejo is no exception. The phrase, bien cuidado means “good lookout” which gets shorten to bien cuidao. The bien cuidaos are always on our streets doing the odd jobs such as washing cars for residents, carrying groceries or directing tourists to nearby shops and restaurants. They also provide maintenance services for the cars such as polishing, interior cleaning, etc. or painting buildings around their block.

We had the opportunity to catch one of our bien cuidao’s in Casco Viejo cleaning a car that had tar all over the exterior. His name is Julio, he is 35 years old and we call him “El Lobo”. Julio lives in Don Bosco, Terramar and rides one of the Diablo Rojos to work every morning to do whatever he can to earn some honest money.

Julio likes Casco Viejo because it a peaceful and quiet place. In addition to cleaning and taking care of the cars in our neighborhood he also gets some small construction jobs. “This is just a temporary job” he said “the idea is to do something”; he would like to work on a construction project as a contractor.

So, the next time you park on a street guarded by a bien cuidao, for twenty five cents, he’ll help you park and keep an eye on your car. For $2.00, get the exterior washed. You’ll be helping him make a simple living.

Panama Events: CasaCor Panama 2008

Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

Panama City, Panama

This might be Friday the Thirteenth, but it not to worry, there is far too much excitement in Casco Viejo from the CasaCor Panama 2008 event that we don’t have time for superstitions. Most of our events run over a weekend, CasaCor started on Monday and will close on 13 July, which falls on a Sunday. Sixty seven professional designers are participating. I happen to walk inside the former high school Antiguo Colegio Javier, where the event is taking place, on Monday morning. Workmen were everywhere, hammering, hanging, cleaning, installing as decorators scurried about arranging their spaces. Amazing how things can be pulled together when there is an inflexible deadline. And such was the case opening night. Wednesday night, I attended a cocktail party by one of the sponsors. I couldn’t believe this was the same place. Everything was in order. Room after room offered idea after idea. I was picking up business cards right and left. The Antiguo Colegio Javier, neglected for years, has a new look for the next five weeks. Don’t miss this event if you’re in Panama. I’m going back again; it was too much to take in on a single visit.

Panama News: Tram Service in San Felipe and Santa Ana

Casco Viejo, San Felipe

Panama City, Panama

One of these days, the headline in La Prensa might read, “Tram Service in Casco Antiguo Returns”. That would be something to get excited about. The first trams in 1893 were electric. You can still see the original tracks on Avenida Central starting from Calle Segunda all the way past Santa Ana Plaza to the end of the walking portion of Avenida Central. In the early days, trams competed with horse drawn buggies as a mode of transportation. Allen Morrison, author of The Tramways of Panama City” has included a number of interesting black and white photos of the trams. Trying to recognize the buildings in the background is quiz material for Panamanian historians. Cars and buses present major traffic and parking problems in historic cities, especially if there are narrow streets. Trams could be a picturesque solution.

Panama News: La Prensa Spanish to English Translator

Casco Antiguo, Panama City

San Felipe

while working on your Spanish language skills, here is an interesting idea. Be aware, that as far as we can determine, this works only with Google.

Google up La Prensa Panama. From the main page which will be in Spanish, you’ll find a link to La Prensa that says in light blue, “translate this page.” Click on that. The next screen will have the front page translated to English. Choose an article you want to read by clicking on “more”. What’s interesting about this option is that as you click on articles, you can put your cursor over a sentence (sometimes an entire paragraph) and see it in the original Spanish. (Be aware, that the translations option doesn’t work for the first screen which is the main page. You have to be on one of the stories.)

Now, as many of you have may already know, automatic translations can sometimes produce some weird results, and that can happen here. However, comparing even occasionally mangled English text with the Spanish original will more often than not be helpful, especially if your Spanish is advanced enough to discount what doesn’t seem to make sense.

To our knowledge, La Prensa translated by Google is the only Panama journalism source offering this English to Spanish translation option. However, La Prensa as the most prominent Panama newspaper is a valuable source of information.

There are other ways to get news from Panama in English, though and we’ll get into that topic soon. If you are planning a trip to Panama, be sure to visit Casco Viejo. During the coming weeks, this UNESCO Heritage site will be in the news frequently. Why? We’ll leave that up to you to find out through La Prensa. Or, keep reading this blog for the latest news of What’s Happening in Casco Antiguo

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Panama: 17 Foot Tides make a fascinating landscape

Casco Viejo, San Felipe

Panama City, Panama

When Patrizia and Casey planned their recent wedding ceremony on the Casco Viejo beach that looks out over the Canal entrance, we suddenly had to pay attention to the tide table, something most of us here rarely have reason to do.

The wedding had to accommodate various travel and schedule conflicts and furthermore had to be in the late afternoon not long before sunset. The only date and time that suited everyone was just two hours before high tide, assuming we were checking the right table.

My apartment has a view of that beach and I’ve seen full moon high tide roll right up to the old colonial wall leaving not a sliver of sand on which to arrange chairs and place a dais and create colorful aisles lined with tropical fruit. The wedding planner had concern–after all, the tides in Panama are famously seventeen feet or more.

Who ordinarily worries about tides? For most visitors the tide is fascinating only in that from, say, the old fort, Las Bovedas where the ancient courthouse and dungeons during the 1700s was located, at low tide you can see vast stretch of uncovered rock jutting out it in every direction for a couple hundred yards. This rocky brown bottom when exposed is what kept seafaring marauders such as the infamous pirate Henry Morgan from getting close to this peninsula in the 1700s. That is, back when it was simply The City, long before it was Casco Viejo (the Old Center of Town, or alternately, Casco Antiguo and also goes by the name San Felipe).

We Googled up Panama Tides, and being told that there could be–or might not be–a discrepancy because U.S. tide tables take into consideration Daylight Savings time which Panama doesn’t use–we opted to trust the Panama Canal’s tables.

Which turned out to be right? The sandy strip was some 100 feet from sea to seawall, and the ceremony was over before the tide even encroached. In some areas of the bay, locales will walk out on the rocks to catch a few tasty morsels for dinner. We never tire of watching the tides ebb and flow.

As most people know, the tides are regulated by the moon, which rises about 50 minutes later each day. All that means to most of us is that if you go walking on the Bovedas at, say, 6 a.m. every morning, within the space of a couple of weeks you’ll see everything from dead high to dead low tide which won’t affect your life much. Unless you’re planning a wedding.