Simply Amazing! Panama´s “Die Hard”

 Panama, Casco Viejo
Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

I swear I had this great-very-serious article about the gas refinery projects that are coming to Panama, but someone just sent me this amazing picture and I just couldn´t help it. Check it out and you´ll see what I mean. Yes, again… it is my tomato fixation. Someone suggested I needed to seek professional help. I´ve been searching in the web for help groups, but seem not to find any, so I´ll guess I´ll have to create a group by myself. I´m struggling here to find the right name…

But take a look at this picture and tell me it is not one of the most incredible things you´ve seen. I´m no scientist here, but from my work at Smithsonian I learned about survival techniques plants use to keep themselves into the gene pool and not die before they reproduce (which is also good for animals). But this is like a Bruce Willis “Die Hard” movie version! almost the Kama Sutra of tomatoes showing off an upside down pose! Think about it: this guy managed to # 1 germinate and develop from a dark hole in a brick wall (this is pretty awesome on itself) #2 gather strength to grow normally even if up side down and in lack on any real soil and # 3 bear tomatoes and therefore propagate as a species. Some charitative soul interested probably on eating the tomato put a little string so it wouldn´t fall on its own weight. However, I get the sense this guy is stronger than you might see at first glance. Can you imagine doing the same as a human? fat chance!

Casco Viejo tomato growing out the wall, literally

Panama Real Estate: How to purchase an unrestored building in Casco Viejo?

Panama, Casco Antiguo

 

I want to restore a building, what do I need to know?

 

Buying and renovating a building in Casco Antiguo is an enjoyable, and sometimes profitable, venture that will be enhanced by a good understanding of the process and issues involved. We hope that the following steps are a helpful guide. 

 

a)      Determine your goals and learn the rules. The first step is to clearly identify your goals. Are you looking for a house for private use? A building to convert into a condo? Is commercial space important to you? Views? Parking? Each building has its own characteristics and, because of the historic preservation rules, your project’s features will be largely dictated by what currently exists on the property. You can obtain a copy of the historic preservation rules from Oficina del Casco Antiguo.

b)      Research the costs involved in renovating. As a rule of thumb, gut renovation construction costs for condominiums start around $100 per square foot and can go up considerably from there. Soft costs can range from 15-30% of construction costs. Understanding this upfront will help you determine the size of the project you want to take on.

c)      Find the right building. Typically your search will start either on the websites of brokers working in the area or by walking the streets looking for signs on buildings that appear to fit your criteria. Because there is no comprehensive multiple listing system in Panama City, we recommend working with a licensed real estate professional. They typically have many more listings than they put on their websites and often have a walth of knowledge regarding attributes of specific buildings that may not be apparent from their fasades (e.g. views, internal courtyards, historical significance, future nearby projects, etc.) They also know which buildings are problematic.

d)      Find the right architect. An architect experienced in the Casco is essential for two reasons. First, historic building renovations are inherently tricky. They require very careful site analysis, knowledge of traditional building materials and the willingness to delve into a level of drafting detail that is unusual in new construction. They also require knowledge of the historic preservation laws in the Casco, and the procedures for getting projects through the approval process.

e)      Do your diligence. Once you have identified a potential building, several items of due diligence are necessary. First, consult with Patrimonio Historico to determine exactly what historical preservation guidelines apply to that specific building. For instance, if you are told that the building has an opening for parking, confirm with Patrimonio Historico that it is so. Second, determine if the building is occupied and, if so, how many residents are in the building. Do not attempt to negotiate a desalojo using an attorney who does not have experience in the area. The attorneys who specialize in this type fo work know the neighborhood dynamics and how to approach the process. Using an inexperienced attorney will cost you time and money, and may have implications far beyond your project.

f)        Settle on closing mechanisms. Once you have found a property you like, work with your attorney and broker to establish closing mechaniscs that fit your timetable and needs. Closings in Panama are typically much simpler affairs than in the US. They can be handled remotely through powers of attorney and wire transfers or lovally by a visit to the notary and a certified check. In all cases, a reputable attorney is a must. If you do no speak Spanish, find an English speaking attorney, but do not be mislead into believing that good language skills and slick marketing translate into good legal skills. Ask around, interview and get references.

 

 

Panama History: Casa Gongora, before and after

Panama, Casco Viejo – Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

The oldest inside joke in Casco Viejo is that it isn´t a colonial city at all. As a matter of fact, all the examples of colonial buildings burnt during one of the three big fires back in the XVIII century. All but one: Casa Gongora. The only true colonial house of Casco Viejo. This is what I call an extreme makeover: before and after restoration.

Casa Gongora serves now as a museum, a concert hall, an art gallery. Located in Avenida Central and Fourth Street, right in front of my favorite ice cream shop GrandClement.

Panama Real Estate: Buying an Apartment in Casco Viejo

Panama, Casco Viejo

Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

Buying a restored apartment is one of the best investments you can make in Casco Viejo. It is an almost risk free enterprise where your costs are known and very little variation occurs. Also, you can get it rented almost immediately and your big gain is in the appreciation, so you can legally “sit on it” forever. Plus, you can even finance it with a local bank.  Someone else carries the risk of building, financing, time, constructions, historical approvals… you just get the key, a title and all you have to do is to go to UNION Fenosa and connect the electricity. Well, perhaps to Idaan to get the water under your name and to Cable and Wireless to connect phone and internet (although other providers are already in town).  As complicated as this sounds, it is not even a third of the complications, the risks, the costs and the grey hair you get when restoring a building on your own.
However, there are a few things you should keep in mind, which tend to be different in Panama than in the States and in some parts of Europe. Please read below and take note… 

1. Finishes

Traditionally in Panama it is common for apartments to be sold with minimal finishings. As the market has become more international, developers have started to raise finishing levels. Still, in many cases, appliances, light fixtures, air conditioners and other basic items are not included in the price of new apartments. Accordingly, if you are buying in pre sale it is a good idea to get a detailed finish list from the developer. In addition to making sure the basic items are listed, get assurances regarding the quality levels, particularly with respect to windows (double pane helps to cut street noise) and kitchen.
 

2. Measurements.

The condominium law in Panama provides a very specific method for measuring the area of an apartment, which is quite different from the US and Europe. In essence, Article 74 of the condominium law requires area to be calculated from the middle of the apartment’s perimeter walls in, with interior and exterior space treated equally. There are no reductions made for bathrooms, closets, balconies, etc. This measurement is used in the public deed and in calculating the price. Because the measurement is taken from the middle of the perimeter walls ust about the only way that one can measure an apartment in Panama legally is from the blue prints, with confirmatory measurements in situ.

3. Construction Price Increases.

It is standard in Panama for pre-construction sales contracts to include a provision allowing the developer to raise the sale price by up to 10% if construction cost increase beyond projections. The purpose of this clause is to protect the developer from inflammation, not to allow it to pass mistakes off to the buyers or increase its profit margins. In fact, most reputable developers would rather eat a little inflation in their margins rather than gain a reputation for invoking this clause. While you may not be able to negotiate this clause out of the purchase contract, it is worth investigating the developer’s history to learn whether and under what circumstances it has invoked the clause in the past.

 

Panama Events: La Casona says Goodbye!… and Welcome!

 Panama, Casco Viejo
Casco Antiguo, Plaza Herrera

For the last two years, La Casona de las Brujas has been the center of the Panamanian bohemian scene. The space located at the old Maria Imaculada School near Plaza Herrera served as art gallery, concert hall, disco, art school for local children and just the favorite afterhours neighborhood hang out. 

A little bit like gypsies, La Casona model is based on “opening” spaces in unrestored buildings until they are up for restoration, giving the building life and sometimes breaking into areas that aren´t well known. Two years ago, Plaza Herrera was considered dangerous and undesirable. La Casona opened the eyes of young and not so young until it was synonim of Casco Viejo. This year, the building of La Inmaculada will be restored, and therefore la Casona has closed its doors there… only to open them again almost next door!

This time at the iconic City Bank, right on the other side of the Plaza. So don´t fear! the party will still go on…

Here are some images of last night´s party. A great performance from the band Reggae Roots!

Thanks girls! keep up the good work…

Panama History and Culture: Casco Antiguo´s 100 Years Old National Theatre

Panama, Casco Viejo

Casco Antiguo, San Felipe 

 

 

 

Back in my university days, I did a paper on Panama’s National Theatre in Casco Antiguo. Although looking back it was pretty much incomplete, naïve and badly written, I can’t tell you how much I enjoyed researching for it. For me, the National Theatre is like a second home, a place that saw me grow up while dancing. It’s history has always been from glory to disaster, and then to glory again.

 

One of the things that made me laugh at the top of my lungs was the first “Gaceta Oficial” ( the newspaper where the government publishes the laws when they are approved) where they mentioned the need to build a theatre. Panama, back in 1903 was not much more than a village. Literally the document said something along these lines: “And we will dedicate the sum of (I think it was) a million dollars to build: the presidential house, a school, public bathrooms, a theatre”.  The list for sure included some other things, but back then Panama was so basic that they had to build public bathrooms and a place for the brand new elected government to meet. And the Theatre became this place in more than one occasion.

 

Another “picture” in my mind that made me smile was the Theatre´s “code of conduct”. I remember it mentioned that ladies with feather hats should remove them, and gentlemen with tall hats. Also, you were not allowed to make noise with your walking stick (baston). The main balconies where assigned to the Fire Department, the central one to the President, and there was another one for the Major. The original theatre was made mostly out of wood (of course, no air conditioning) and when the car came into fashion it was necessary to change it because of the noise outside.

 

The Republic of Panama was literally being born, and the National Theatre was it´s social and cultural heart.

 

A beautiful article came out the other day at Ellas from La Prensa, celebrating the National Theatre´s 100 years. Written by Vannie Arrocha Morán, please search it out.

 

 

The original building where the theatre was later on built was actually a monastery for nuns. They had a small theatre called Sarah Bernahrdt, as it is said that the artist was once brought to perform there during the time of the French Canal.  But the “Teatro Nacional” as we call it in Spanish, was built over the monastery and inaugurated in 1908 during the presidency of José Domingo de Obaldía. Its debut was grandiose, with the opera Aida presented by the Italian company Mario Lambardi. 

 

The building was designed by Giussepe Ruggieri, one of the most prolific architects in Panama at the time. Roberto Lewis painted the ceiling frescoes, and Enrico Corrado did the chalk sculpture.  It was the time for optimism, so the Theatre had a lot of work showing all the well known operas from Carmen to La Traviatta.

 

Reaching the 30´s the theatre experiences its first fall. It hit bottom, as at some point it even got to be used as a movie theatre. Special note here: the National Theatre was the crème of the crème of San Felipe. However, Santa Ana had also its own jewel in Teatro Variedades. This Theatre in theory was aimed to the popular sectors which couldn’t pay the National Theatres´s fees. However, at least for the first period of splendor, the same opera or ballet company that would perform at the National Theatre one night would go to the Variedades the next night for a cheaper price. The story of both theatres sort of go hand by hand in this first period. When the National Theatre decays, Variedades bites the dust too. And if the National Theatre got to be a movie theatre, well… Variedades became a boxing ring and a movie theatre. When they where showing movies, the evening started with a ruffle between the public, the news, a comedy act, cartoons and then the movie. You could spend the entire evening there, and maybe even take a prize back home.

 

Back to the National Theatre, it got its first intervention in 1941 by the architect Guillermo de Roux. However, in the 70´s it fell again. The 70´s was a difficult time as it marked the beginning of the military regime. The Theatre got used for all sorts of things, including the school proms. In 1974 the architect René Brenes is hired to work on the theatre again. But by 1999 it was a disaster. I remember betting with my dancer friends when the chandelier was going to finally fall on top of everyone.

 

Well, the chandelier never got to fall, but the ceiling painting from Roberto Lewis. So in the year 2004 the Theatre went into a full rehab. For those who worked on this project they have said that the original proposal included much more stuff. However, from the stand point of a user at the backstage, it was a lot of work and the theatre really took back its dignity. I would have loved to see the original side gardens recovered and the café opened towards it creating a “café de la opera”, but well, maybe we had to leave something for next time.

 

A 100 years old! Celebrations are at hand, starting August 7^th with a concert to commemorate the Artist´s Day. In August 28^th, the soprano Nicole Puga will sing in a gala from the Fundación Bel Canto. The National Orchestra will perform on the 1^st of October and the National Ballet will present Bayadere from the 6^th to the 8^th of October.

 

Madame Butterfly will perform on the 14^th and 16^th of October. And two award ceremonies will be held at the ends of October: the Ricardo Miro (for poetry) on the 17^th and the Roberto Lewis on the 31^st.  By the way, check out our virtual tour of the National Theatre here.

 

 

 

Panama Art: Collectors attention… Fundacion San Felipe´s annual Art Auction in August

 Panama, Casco Antiguo
Casco Viejo, San Felipe

We received a flash note from Quintessentially announcing their next “Silent Auction” of Fundacion San Felipe. This year, the 17th one, it will be held at the Marriott hotel, and all proceeds will go to their various programs ranging from art to photography for kids. This is usually a good place to get mostly Latinamerican Art.

There isn´t much in the internet about the Foundation, however, they´ve been in the area  for quite a while, working with children and taking care of the restoration of the San Felipe Neri church, which was their flag project, and now serves as headquarters for most of their programs.

The auction will be August 12th, and you can get the tickets through Quintessentially: qpanama@quintessentially.com

Here is a picture of photographer Francisco Bech and his class. Francisco has been collaborating every summer with the Foundation for the last 3 years providing a photograph course for free to children in the area.

Panama News: The Director of Casco Antiguo gets interview at La Prensa

 Panama, Casco Antiguo
Casco Viejo, San Felipe

This sunday, La Prensa ran a full page interview with Ariel Espino, the Director of the Oficina del Casco Antiguo called usually OCA.  Here is the full article in Spanish and a brief summary in English.

Casco Antiguo has gone through an intense revitalization process. “In 10 years, you won´t be able to recognize it.” says Ariel Espino.

Next year is Panama´s election year. Most officials are presenting their reports and even more of them have started early their political campaigns. But the Office of Casco Antiguo has kept working and is looking to gain autonomy that will enable them to continue with long term policies and not be tied up to the political changes.  They are presenting a law that would create them as a Patronato, which would be a permanent figure, and would grant more freedom of action and sustainability.

The Oficina del Casco Antiguo has been quite busy. From cultural events to the urban planning of the Casco there are very few aspects where they aren´t present. It´s Director is a dinamyc architect with a passion for historic cities, which makes it perfect. In this interview, he speaks about the train project , the advances against speculation, the controversial projects at Hotel Central and the old Club Union. The Oficina del Casco Antiguo supports all tourism ventures in the Casco, specially hotels. Hotel Central got into trouble recently because they demolished protected structure. However, according to Espino, some of it was taken apart to be brought in again with the restoration. On the Club Union project he mentions that they already have plans at Patrimonio Historico pending for approvals. They are also waiting for the archeological study and environmental impact study.

He summarizes his balance after 4 years of working in the OCA by saying that the Casco has finally gained a momentum where about 20 or 30 projects are being built per year. He is glad this has been achieved and with the only 800 properties in the entire protected area this should be enough to transform the Casco radically in about 10 years. It won´t be “finished” but very different from what you can see today.

Panamá, domingo 20 de julio de 2008

www.prensa.com

ENTREVISTA Espino: ‘En 10 años más el Casco estará irreconocible’ El director de la Oficina del Casco Antiguo advierte que todavía hay que trabajar en controlar la especulación. En agosto se recibirá la última consultoría para el tranvía, que ayudará a definir el modelo de gestión. LA PRENSA/ Gabriel Rodríguez Recuperación. Ariel Espino asegura que los trabajos del Hotel Central son similares a los de la mayoría de los edificios del Casco. 1061742 Zoraida Chong zchong@prensa.com Con los cambios de gobierno, cada cinco años, históricamente ha habido también cambios de administración en la mayoría de las oficinas públicas, de manera que muchos de los proyectos de las diferentes entidades estatales quedan en suspenso o en abandono. En el caso de la Oficina del Casco Antiguo (OCA), el año pasado se planteó la necesidad de darle mayor autonomía, para garantizar así la continuidad del plan maestro del barrio más antiguo de Panamá. Aunque esto no se ha conseguido todavía, Ariel Espino, director ejecutivo de la OCA, explica que ya se tiene un borrador de anteproyecto de ley, que está en estudio en el Ministerio de Vivienda, y que debería entrar a discusión en la Asamblea Nacional en el próximo periodo de sesiones -en septiembre de este año-. Pero mientras esto se decide, Espino ya puede hacer un balance de los cuatro años que lleva a cargo de la OCA y de los principales proyectos que se encuentran sobre la mesa. ¿Cómo va el proyecto de instalar un tranvía en el Casco Antiguo? Hemos hecho tres consultorías, la tercera está por entregarse en agosto y esa es la última. Esta consultoría va a producir unos pliegos de licitación para la concesión del proyecto. Lo que este consultor está preparando es un estimado de costos, rentabilidad, número estimado de usuarios, rutas, tecnología. Eso no quiere decir que inmediatamente lo vamos a sacar a licitación, porque todavía tenemos que ver cuánto cuesta y qué rentabilidad tiene, pero este último trabajo nos va a decir mejor cómo lo podemos gestionar. ¿Tiene alguna idea de cuándo podría empezar a operar? Está en una etapa final de estudio. No me atrevería a dar fechas, pero cuando el proyecto ya está formulado, es mucho más fácil gestionarlo, ya sea con fondos disponibles o amarrarlo con otros proyectos de transporte público. Ya se ven más propiedades en recuperación en el Casco, ¿significa esto que se ha avanzado en el control de la especulación? Se ha avanzado… Era un problema grave en 2004 cuando empezamos en esta administración, porque aunque había una ley contra el abandono de edificios desde 1997, no se había aplicado ninguna multa. Ahora hay más de 60 procesos y algunos ya se han cobrado. ¿Y las propiedades condenadas? La Dirección de Patrimonio Histórico [del Instituto Nacional de Cultura] está constantemente mandando cartas a los propietarios de los edificios que están en muy mal estado. Nosotros cooperamos con muchos procesos de desalojo, en especial cuando hay un proyecto de por medio. ¿Qué opinión tienen ustedes de los trabajos que se están haciendo en el Hotel Central? El Hotel Central ha sido una preocupación de esta administración desde el inicio, porque fue el último gran hotel de la ciudad, está en una posición prominente y aquí hay una urgencia enorme de tener hoteles. Siempre ha habido pensiones y hoteles de mochileros, pero necesitamos ya la inversión de lujo. Parte de la posibilidad de generar una economía turística en el Casco es tener a los turistas aquí, porque a veces el que viene en un tour no es el que más gasta . Aun así, a los vecinos les preocupa que cada vez queda menos de esa estructura. Las controversias han sido más por la modalidad de restauración o rehabilitación que se ha usado. Algunas personas hubieran preferido que se conservara más, pero mucho está conservado y guardado para reinstalarse en su momento. Ahí se ha insistido mucho en que la fachada tiene que recuperarse. El primer patio es importantísimo -donde estaba la escalera- y se conserva parte de la escalera, pero mucho estaba muy deteriorado. Son discusiones válidas que se dan con frecuencia, pero desde la perspectiva del futuro del Casco, la recuperación de ese edificio como un hotel será una pieza fundamental en el desarrollo del área. El que no parece tener muchos avances es el proyecto en el antiguo Club Unión. Para el Club Unión se aprobó un anteproyecto y la Dirección de Patrimonio Histórico está esperando los planos finales. Tengo entendido que no han llegado hasta el momento, pero sé que han estado adelantando [el propietario] con el estudio de impacto ambiental y con algo de arqueología. Y sí, son los dos proyectos hoteleros grandes en los que estamos interesados. Tras cuatro años de gestión, ¿cuál es su balance y cuáles las tareas pendientes? El Casco tiene más de 800 propiedades, la mayor parte en manos privadas. Significa que para restaurarlo se necesitan 800 proyectos, y no hay un barrio en Panamá que necesite de tantas construcciones. Lo que necesitas es ver un centro histórico con 20 ó 30 proyectos iniciándose por año, lo que te da un ritmo lo suficientemente sostenido como para ver cambios dramáticos en 10 ó 15 años. Eso lo hemos conseguido y esperamos que no caiga. Pero estamos en un momento de auge inmobiliario, el Casco se ha beneficiado de eso y creo que a este ritmo, en 10 años más el Casco va a estar irreconocible. No estará terminado, pero sí muy distinto a lo que vemos hoy. PERFIL ESPINO: Es arquitecto por la Universidad Católica Santa María la Antigua, tiene una maestría en planeamiento urbano de la University of Arizona y un Ph.D. en antropología de la Rice University. A mediados de la década de 1990 fue subdirector de Patrimonio Histórico del Instituto Nacional de Cultura, y entre 1997 y 2002 trabajó en la firma Knudson, en Estados Unidos, una empresa de arquitectura especializada en planificación y paisajismo. Es miembro del American Institute of Ciertified Planners y, actualmente, director ejecutivo de la Oficina del Casco Antiguo.

Panama News: Marriott International Inc. will introduce Renaissance hotels in Panama

 Panama, Casco Viejo
Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

From Today´s La Prensa:

Panama will have a Renaissance Hotel (by Marriott) by 2011. This announcement was made by Edward Fuller, president and executive director for Marriott International in the region, who mentioned this would be an investment of about 40 million dollars. “Panama´s economics are strong and the hotel industry is in constant growth”.  Renaissance Panama Hotel is expected to have 300 rooms and will be part of a mixed project which will include both residential and commercial real estate. The current Marriott hotel seems to be quite busy itself, as according to Fuller it is currently under expansion. An investment of another $10 million dollars resulting in a total of 376 rooms.

Finally, they are planning two more projects in Panama City: with Hotel Courtyard by Marriott Panama (will expand to 248 rooms) and the opening of another hotel near the commercial shopping mall Los Pueblos.

Panama Historic Real Estate: Business with Heart

Panama, Casco Antiguo

Casco Viejo, San Felipe

 

 

A neighborhood is such a delicate fabric. Only now is Casco Viejo reaching  enough  residential critical mass to support, for example, a gourmet grocery store. It is funny, as it Super Gourmet in A Avenue has become the neighborhood equivalent of the “kitchen” at home, where all the family gathers while cooking and snacking.

 

As the neighborhood develops, more and more services are needed, but space is always scarce. In the medium term future, hotels are coming into town, but even without them, short term rental apartments (which tend to do pretty well and basically work as a dispersed hotel throughout the Casco) bring a bit of a tourist traffic in need of other things.  We made a poll some months ago and the answers where incredible. From a laundry to a sushi bar, I think someone even mentioned somewhere to watch movies and a place to buy pots and plants. The community is coming together, a fantastic thing to experience. Not only through making business in the same neighborhood, but also supporting and being active in community programs. I remember someone dear once said: remember these days. These are the fun days. Once the neighborhood gets gentrified, you´ll be so bored. 

 

While I hope that day never comes, I have to say he was (and still is many times!) right. These are the fun days, where everything still has a twist, everything is hand made and each business has a heart behind it. Isn´t that the way it used to be?