Secret Beach at Casco Viejo, Panama

 Panama, Casco Viejo
Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

Panama Beach Casco Viejo

Santo Domingo Beach is the closest beach in Panama City and Casco Viejo´s best kept secret. It isn´t the white super duper white type, but a natural tan color (that doesn´t kill your eyes with the sun´s reflection) and lots of personality. In its old days, the Club Santo Domingo used to be where the current basketball (and everything ball) courtyard is, and even had a pier for small cayuco boats that served local fishermen. The endless rock carpet is home for clams and other molluscs.  On low tide, the beach strip is a great place to hang out, and (as you can see) it gets “crowded” on Sundays when the local beisball or volleyball team is playing.

The only drawback: the water is contaminated as the sewer system empties directly into the ocean, as many old cities did back in the days. However, with the Cinta Costera project (which has already started to put the pipes in) this problem will be corrected as it is redirecting everything to a treatment plan. Studies say that we´ll be able to wear our bikinis in less than 8 years.  Well, in fact, locals not only swim but surf at this beach, so I guess it can´t be that bad! I still wouldn´t recommend eating the clams and molluscs from here, though!

These are pictures from last Sunday, when the local beisball league played. While everybody in the city was trapped at home, in Casco you can walk out to the beach and enjoy.

Panama´s Economy Growths 8.2%

 Panama, Casco Viejo
Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

Panama has been growing very fast for the last 8 years. A “miracle” made by a curious mix of tourism, investment and other countries misfortunes (Alias Venezuela and Chavez or Colombia and the FARC). Although on the short term there´s been a great impulse by the construction sector, consider Panama´s big three big long term fundamental investments: the Panama Canal Expansion project (which has already started), the relocation of the regional office of very important companies such as Caterpillar, Maersk, Dell, Procter and Gamble, Aventis and finally the oil refinary project in Puerto Armuelles. All of which has created a long term, sustained demand for talent and products, therefore growth.

But also inflation. The country has been experiencing for the first time ever what inflation is, and how to deal with a slowing global economy. One of its strenghts is that everything combined, Panama comes out as a micro niche within a niche, and that is where its advantage lies in today´s world.  Geographically and economically, this is where hurricanes are only felt as storms.

According to today´s La Prensa report (based on the report from the Government´s Comptroller office) Panama has grown this trimester 8.2% (see report here: http://www.contraloria.gob.pa/archivos_informesdelc/InformeTrimJunio2008/resumen.htm  and La Prensa note below). 

Or the entire report here:  http://www.contraloria.gob.pa/archivos_informesdelc/InformeTrimJunio2008/index.htm

The basic numbers are:

Tourism grew 11% and spent 19% more
Transportation, deposits and Communications grew 148.3% (wao, I guess Cable & Wireless is really making some money)
The Panama Canal increased income on 12.1%

Now, what about Casco Viejo? If Panama is where the hurricanes are only felt as storms, then in Casco all you need is a cute umbrella. The fundamentals of a revitalized, eclectic and economically vibrant historic city are as strong as ever. And since you never have millions of products available at one time (maybe 6 or 7) demand is always there. Plus, it is just a fun place to live in or visit, which at the end of the day brings more value on its own as humans rate fun highly in their scale. The most valuable places in the world are those where humans enjoy themselves the most. They have a rare combination of beauty and content, and Casco Antiguo is a rising star within Panama. 

And here is the article from La Prensa which you can access at: www.prensa.com

Panamá, miércoles 27 de agosto de 2008

IMAE.contraloría publica informe. Economía panameña sube 8.2% El ritmo de crecimiento se ha desacelerado, pero sigue siendo fuerte y uno de los más altos de la región.El Colegio de Economistas estima que la inflación de 2008 duplicará la de 2007: 8.7%. 1080572Marianela Palacios Ramsbott mpalacios@prensa.com La economía de Panamá, medida a través del Índice Mensual de Actividad Económica (IMAE), que publicó ayer la Contraloría , creció 8.2% en el primer semestre de 2008. Eso representa una desaceleración de más de dos puntos porcentuales respecto a lo registrado en el mismo periodo de 2007, pero ese ritmo de crecimiento sigue siendo “muy fuerte” y uno de los más altos de la región. En eso coinciden el presidente del Colegio de Economistas, Raúl Moreira, y el financista Domingo Latorraca, analista de Deloitte. La actividad económica del país se incrementó en 10.58% el año pasado. “La desaceleración que hemos tenido no es para alarmarse. Al contrario, si seguíamos creciendo a ese ritmo podíamos enfrentar un sobrecalentamiento de la economía y eso se traduciría en más inflación”, opina el economista Adolfo Quintero.

British Travel to Panama: The Guardian Features Casco Viejo Nightlife

 

Panama, Casco Viejo

Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

A few days ago I got an email from a journalist at The Guardian, as they´ve found somehow my postings on La Casona in Casco Viejo. It was quite exciting, this is my first collaboration with international press! Here is the article:

 

 

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2008/aug/23/panama.southamericaHats off to Panama

Panama City used to be somewhere people travelled through, not to. But the transformation of a run-down neighbourhood into one of the hippest barrios in Latin America is changing that Vicky Baker Saturday August 23 2008 The Guardian

 

A grubby billboard stands propped up against the kerb.

“La Casona de las Brujas”, it reads, which loosely translates as the House of Witches.

It seems appropriate for a dark side street in Panama City’s ramshackle Casco Viejo neighbourhood. I have no idea where Xili, my Panamanian friend, is taking me, but I’m pretty sure she doesn’t have a secret penchant for black magic.

Five minutes later, it becomes clear. Some sort of magic has been worked here, but it’s far from sinister. What was once a Catholic girls’ school has been transformed into one of the funkiest live music venues in the city. A shabby corridor leads to an open-air courtyard decked in fairy lights: the school’s old wooden desks have been brightly painted, barrels have been upturned to make seats, and there’s a giant portrait of the Virgin Mary keeping watch over the dancefloor.

Panama does not spring to mind as a place to find decent alternative music, but it’s fast gaining that reputation. Places such as La Casona – hosting a diverse bill of artists, national and international, signed and unsigned – are gaining huge fan bases and confounding preconceptions.

Until recently, the Panamanian capital was a place where travellers stopped only long enough to take a photo of the canal and do a bit of shopping, before moving on to the San Blas islands or the country’s other famous archipelago, Bocas del Toro, near the Costa Rican border.

But more and more people are now using the capital as a base. As well as its nightlife and booming restaurant scene, you’ve also got a wealth of attractions within easy reach, including two coastlines and the breathtaking rainforest with toucans, hummingbirds, harpy eagles, howler monkeys, even the occasional jaguar if you’re very lucky.

The place that has really got people talking is Casco Viejo (also known as Casco Antiguo). Until very recently it was a slum, but now this edgy district in the west of the city is the place to be seen. A low-rise maze of winding streets filled with colonial architecture, it is at that intriguing stage where a Wifi-enabled cafe with immaculately groomed window boxes sits next to an abandoned shell of a building with no windows.

It is also where the best nightlife is found. Bypass Calle Uruguay, a neon-lit central avenue lined with mainstream bars, restaurants and clubs, and head for La Casona de las Brujas (enlacasona.com).

At the forefront of the area’s artistic renaissance, the nomadic La Casona makes its home in rundown colonial properties before the developers move in. After a successful stint in the school, it’s about to unveil its latest location: an art deco bank with a high ceiling and the look of a hip loft apartment, just across the road from the school at Plaza Herrera.

“Everyone’s talking about the property boom here, but the country’s music is equally explosive,” says Fred Maduro, lead singer of the Vox, a metal and prog rock band that I see play at La Casona. “There’s huge diversity here – bands are fusing native music with rock, creating a really fresh sound.”

It seems the region at large is finally taking note of the country’s talent too. Last November, a homegrown band, Los Rabanes, won a best album award at the Latin Grammys with their mix of ska, punk, reggae and rock.

The jazz scene is also attracting attention. If you miss the huge January festival, try Platea (scenaplatea.com) in Casco Viejo, a cosy joint with bare-brick walls that alternates live jazz nights with salsa. “James Bond was here recently,” the barman tells me proudly. Daniel Craig was in town shooting the latest 007 film, Quantum of Solace, with Panama standing in for Bolivia and Haiti.

For something grittier, Fridays and Saturdays bring heavy rock to Banos Publicos (Plaza Herrera), which, as the name suggests, was once a public toilet. Behind sliding grill doors is a venue little bigger than a garage, painted black and decorated with glinting CDs hanging from the ceiling. The lack of frills makes you feel as if you’ve gatecrashed a squat party. “Make sure you pay for your beers. They sometimes forget to charge,” is the advice from the receptionist at my hostel, Luna’s Castle (hosteltrail.com/lunascastle, $10pp pn).

Panama City’s nightlife is enough to make a person nocturnal. But sleep through the day and you miss Panama’s other big draw: the beaches.

Here not only are you faced with the usual dilemma of which bathing suit to pack to the beach, you also have to pick a coast, Pacific or Caribbean. I consider tossing a coin, but I decide to opt for the one that’s been recommended by a local. “Well, it’s a Caribbean island . . .” she begins, and I am sold.

I board a diablo rojo, or “red devil”, as these ubiquitous converted American school buses are known in Panama. Resembling drive-by art shows, each one is covered roof-to-bumper in graffiti. (Think macho caricatures of Tupac and Beanie Man mixed, oddly, with cartoon characters and fairytale castles.) I make a brief stop at Portobelo – once a major hub for trading gold, now a likeable town, with a Unesco-listed ruined fortress and a forthcoming role in the Bond flick. Then, it’s just a short hop to the shores of Isla Grande.

Despite the name, Isla Grande isn’t that big – just 5km by 1.5km, with a population of around 200 people of African descent, most of whom live in colourful, low-rise buildings on the strip surrounding the main landing dock. Homely restaurants, bars and posadas dot the coast, while a winding path through a forest filled with coconut palms, banana trees and fist-sized butterflies brings you to the more isolated northern shore and the small, luxurious Bananas Village Resort (bananasresort.com, from $109pp pn).

I arrive on a weekday, so there are no crowds of daytripping urbanites. A two-minute walk from the dock takes me to a peninsula of empty sand, with shallow waters that are a tie-dye spectrum of blues.

Isla Grande may not have the remote isolation or indigenous tribes of the San Blas archipelago, a 50-minute flight (or three-hour jeep and boat ride) to the northeast of Panama City. But it has got the clear-watered beaches, and a laidback vibe. “Check out: 2pm,” reads the sign outside the waterside posada Cabañas Cholita, home to colourful mosaic-covered walls and quirky lobster decorations.

Activities on the island include snorkelling (keeping an eye out for Francis Drake’s lost coffin, rumoured to be lying somewhere in these waters), rambling to the central lighthouse, or taking a boat trip round the mangroves.

But, in keeping with the spirit of the island, I do none of the above. Just lying on the sand and splashing about a bit suits me fine. Besides, there’s lots of eating to do: cerviche, chichemie (a corn drink that resembles cold rice pudding) and cheesecake at a thatched cafe called El Nido del Postre (overpriced and not very Panamanian, but irresistible nonetheless).

One thing I can’t miss, however, is the famed Black Christ statue, revered by islanders and displayed just off shore. On October 21, the Black Christ festival sees Portobelo and its environs inundated with thousands of pilgrims. Some walk the entire 58 miles from the capital, crawling the last mile on their hands and knees. Although, being Latin America, the reverence is combined with a carnival atmosphere and lots of dancing.

It’s hard to picture this low-key idyll swarming with people. My stay on Isla Grande is peaceful and brief. But as tempted as I am to stick around, the pull of the city is just as strong. Besides, another trip may already be on the agenda. Rumour has it the Mexican reggae roots singer I saw at La Casona has a gig at the weekend. Not on a Caribbean island or the Pacific coast, and not in the hip capital city, but in the middle of the rainforest.

Hotel Travel (0871 230 8512, statravel.co.uk) has flights from Heathrow to Panama City for £598 rtn, inc tax. Stay at the chic Canal House (00507 228-1907, canalhousepanama.com) in Casco Viejo, from US$155 per room.

Panama Eco Event: Arts for Earth Show at Casco Viejo

Panama, Casco Viejo

Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

Casco Viejo September Events

Great News! Casco Viejo will host a very special event in September. The United Nation´s Environment Programmee (known in Spanish as PNUMA) will present an art festival featuring artists from different disciplines, from poetry to street painting. 26 posters jumbo size with images of nature will hang from balconies and will stay there for an entire month, along with some art installations, and while the Casco hosts musical events, video and special tours. Here is the calendar published today at La Prensa. Most of the events will be at the Anita Villalaz Theatre, located at Plaza Francia, Las Bovedas.

3 Sept:

7 p.m. Concert at National Theatre

8 p.m.  Photo Art show from ANAM and Fundacion Albatros at Plaza Los Libertadores

4 Sept:
7 p.m. : Inauguration of festival
7:30 p.m. : Art show at Galeria de las Artes
9 p.m. Music: Son Azul and Shorty and Slim

5 Sept:
8 p.m. : Slide Show of national and international artists
9:30 p.m. Launching of music video from Maleza

6 Sept:
10 a.m. : Workshop “Bandejas de Amor” at Plaza Francia
8 p.m.  Curundú, the documentary.
9:30 p.m. Music: Filtro Medusa in Concert

9 Sept:
9 a.m.: Special tour for students

10 Sept:
8 p.m.   Animation video show

11 Sept:
9 a.m.  Special presentation for students by ANAM (National Environment Agency)

12 Sept:
8 p.m.  Presentation of UVA
8:45 p.m. Art Video show
10:30 p.m.  Alfredo Gasnell show

16 Sept.
9 a.m.: Special tour for students

17 Sept:
7 p.m. : Documentary: Parque Internacional La Amistad (La Amistad International Park)

18 Sept.
9 a.m.: Special tour for students

19 Sept:
10:20 a.m. Performance: Dying Dolfin by Norberto Rojas

20 Sept
8 p.m.   Music Concert: Cienfue in concert and slide show of artist Giacomo Basolu, Jhoram Moya.
10:45 : Music: Calypso

23 Sept:
9 a.m.: Special tour for students

24 Sept:
8 p.m. : Mix performances: poetry, dance, music, video

25 Sept
9 a.m.: Special tour for students

27 Sept:
8 p.m.  Music Concert by Carlos mendez, Raíces y Cultura and Pureza Nacional at Arco Chato

 

 

http://www.prensa.com/

 

AGENTES DE SENSIBILIZACIÓN. ‘ARTE POR LA TIERRA’.

Expresión ‘natural’

El festival se llevará a cabo en la Plaza de Francia, la Galería de las Bóvedas y en el Teatro Anita Villalaz.

Rella Rosenshain
rrosenshain@prensa.com

En el mes de septiembre, amantes del arte, la música y las letras serán los protagonistas del festival “Arte por la Tierra”, organizado por el Programa de las Naciones Unidas para el Medio Ambiente (Pnuma), la Autoridad Nacional del Ambiente, el Instituto Nacional de Cultura y la Oficina del Casco Antiguo.

Diversos artistas y literatos estarán exponiendo su talento en la Plaza de Francia, la Galería de las Bóvedas y en el Teatro Anita Villalaz, desde el 4 al 29 de septiembre. Sin embargo, un día antes de la inauguración del festival la orquesta Sinfónica Nacional de Panamá, dirigida por Jorge Ledezma Bradley, llevará a cabo un concierto denominado “Música por la Tierra”, en el Teatro Nacional.

Rody Oñate, oficial del programa de Pnuma, afirma que los artistas y demás trabajadores de la cultura poseen “herramientas únicas para sensibilizar a la población” y los califica como “eficientes comunicadores de la realidad… ”.

Añade que escritores, como Edilberto Songo González, Javier Romero, José Luis Rodríguez Pittí y más expondrán y recitarán poemas y cuentos.

Panama News: The Guardian Features Casco Viejo at Panama´s nightlife travel article

The internet is an amazing thing. Little would I know Casco Viejo is already featured in one of England´s most read sites.   And not only Casco Viejo, but my favorite spots: Baños Publicos and La Casona! Good job guys! Check it out here:

The Guardian

Going local in Panama City

Vicky Baker is travelling around Central and South America guided by the local people she meets on social networking sites. This week: Panama City

• Vicky Baker
• The Guardian,
• Saturday March 22 2008
• Article history

‘I don’t get to travel as much as I’d like,” says Xili, my guide in Panama City. “That’s why I love meeting couchsurfers. I feel like I’m travelling with them.”

Born in Nicaragua but having spent 14 of her 26 years in Panama, she discovered couchsurfing.com just three months ago, becoming an instant convert to the concept of volunteering to host passing travellers. Although she can’t follow the literal interpretation of having people sleeping on her couch (“My roommate doesn’t understand”), she is happy to show just about anyone around the country’s booming capital.

Panama City has been nicknamed the “Miami of the south” and the parallels are as glaring as the sunlight: waterside skyscrapers, palm-lined avenues, multicultural cuisine, mind-boggling commercialism . . . but it was the tales of its pulsating nightlife that caught my attention. My travel-networking experiment across Central and South America got off to a great start in Ecuador, but I’ve yet to arrange a big night with a local.

If anyone was up for taking things up a notch, it was Xili (pictured above, right), a hardworking, hard-playing lawyer. With her couchsurfing profile listing music, partying and dancing among her interests, I was sure she could show me a good time.

“I hope you’re not planning to sleep tonight,” she says with a grin, as we come face to face for the first time, having exchanged a series of emails. We’ve arranged to meet in Casco Viejo, the city’s most up-and-coming neighbourhood, where derelict colonial buildings are slowly being renovated and a creative undercurrent is bubbling.

What follows is an all-night tour of her favourite night spots. We start with Casco Viejo’s La Casona de las Brujas (enlacasona.com, a live music venue with an open-air courtyard decked in fairylights) and Baños Publicos (Plaza Herrera’s former public bathroom now hosting alternative rock bands). Then, in the early hours, we move on to the bright lights of Calle Uruguay, where minimalist S6IS satisfies Xili’s craving for reggaeton, and the more mainstream rock venue Sahara fits the bill when she has a sudden “need for David Bowie”.

Would I have found these places alone? Maybe. In such a short time frame? Unlikely. Xili’s tour is the equivalent of a shot glass of pure liquor – it provides an instant hit of Panamanian nightlife, while the warm welcome from all her friends makes me feel right at home.

Going local in Panama City

Vicky Baker is travelling around Central and South America guided by the local people she meets on social networking sites. This week: Panama City

• Vicky Baker
• The Guardian,
• Saturday March 22 2008
• Article history

• Previous page· 
• 1
• 2

‘I don’t get to travel as much as I’d like,” says Xili, my guide in Panama City. “That’s why I love meeting couchsurfers. I feel like I’m travelling with them.”

Born in Nicaragua but having spent 14 of her 26 years in Panama, she discovered couchsurfing.com just three months ago, becoming an instant convert to the concept of volunteering to host passing travellers. Although she can’t follow the literal interpretation of having people sleeping on her couch (“My roommate doesn’t understand”), she is happy to show just about anyone around the country’s booming capital.

Panama City has been nicknamed the “Miami of the south” and the parallels are as glaring as the sunlight: waterside skyscrapers, palm-lined avenues, multicultural cuisine, mind-boggling commercialism . . . but it was the tales of its pulsating nightlife that caught my attention. My travel-networking experiment across Central and South America got off to a great start in Ecuador, but I’ve yet to arrange a big night with a local.

If anyone was up for taking things up a notch, it was Xili (pictured above, right), a hardworking, hard-playing lawyer. With her couchsurfing profile listing music, partying and dancing among her interests, I was sure she could show me a good time.

“I hope you’re not planning to sleep tonight,” she says with a grin, as we come face to face for the first time, having exchanged a series of emails. We’ve arranged to meet in Casco Viejo, the city’s most up-and-coming neighbourhood, where derelict colonial buildings are slowly being renovated and a creative undercurrent is bubbling.

What follows is an all-night tour of her favourite night spots. We start with Casco Viejo’s La Casona de las Brujas (enlacasona.com, a live music venue with an open-air courtyard decked in fairylights) and Baños Publicos (Plaza Herrera’s former public bathroom now hosting alternative rock bands). Then, in the early hours, we move on to the bright lights of Calle Uruguay, where minimalist S6IS satisfies Xili’s craving for reggaeton, and the more mainstream rock venue Sahara fits the bill when she has a sudden “need for David Bowie”.

Would I have found these places alone? Maybe. In such a short time frame? Unlikely. Xili’s tour is the equivalent of a shot glass of pure liquor – it provides an instant hit of Panamanian nightlife, while the warm welcome from all her friends makes me feel right at home.

As for the nightlife itself, Calle Uruguay may be the country’s much-hyped nightlife avenue, but, for me, it’s the Casco Viejo venues – less commercial, more bohemian – that leave a lasting impression.

Getting back to my hostel just before dawn, an 8am start the next day is far from ideal, but I have prearranged a meet with my second Panama City contact, Gabriel from asmallworld.net).

ASW is one of a handful of invite-only travel networking sites (see also yacht6.com). How do you gain access to such a hallowed portal? Try asking around. A vague acquaintance – a self-confessed social-networking addict – helped get me through the door. (Although, if I fail to resist temptation to spam fellow members James Blunt and Naomi Campbell, I’ll be out.)

ASW is undeniably elitist, nicknamed Snobster in reference to early social networking site Friendster. However, in my limited use, I’ve always met exceptions to the rule. Gabriel – a thirtysomething owner of an office supplies company and yoga teacher – is such an example: clearly well off, but down-to-earth, unassuming and very generous in his offer to let me join his out-of-town kitesurfing excursion.

Gabriel and friends spend every weekend camping out at Punta Chame, a little-known beach an hour and a half’s drive from the city. “You just arrived in Panama and you’re already at Punta Chame?” asks Amit, a fellow ASW member and kitesurfing addict, as I dip my toes in the Pacific for the first time. “You’ve certainly started at the top.”

Jutting out on a peninsula, a clear day here offers views of the city and, when the tide is out, I have its expansive sands almost to myself, watching the kitesurfers crisscross the gentle waves. Later, as the wind subsides, we convene in the beach’s only restaurant to refuel on fresh fish and patacones (thick slices of plantain, squashed and fried).

The surfers are a sociable bunch and I find myself leaving the beach with a collection of phone numbers. After just one week, I feel like I’ve already begun to establish a small social circle through Gabriel and Xili (who I see many more times). After receiving invites to group dinners, house parties, karaoke nights and even a gig in a rainforest, I become even more convinced that travel networking is the way forward.

I’m starting to feel Panama will be tough to leave, but, fortunately, I have one more week. Next up I’m planning to see the less glamorous side of the country in Colon with Xili, and meet Toyo, a travel-networking member of the Kuna tribe. “Amiga!” he writes, when I tell him I’m in the country. “Welcome to my home. See you next week.”

Travel networking etiquette

Keep it personal

Contacting someone saying simply “Hello. Can I stay at your house for a week?” is unlikely to elicit a positive response. Introduce yourself and your plans. Where possible make the person feel you’ve chosen them for
a reason.

Always reply

If you request to meet someone and they send a personal response to
say they won’t be able to make it, return the courtesy with a reply rather than just moving straight on to the next person.

Communicate

Keep to your plans. Don’t leave your host waiting for you. Don’t pull out at the last minute.

Give a little

If you’re staying at someone’s house, bring a gift (maybe something typical from your own country). If they’re showing you around town, buy lunch or drinks if you can, and always pay your way.

Be courteous

If staying at someone’s home, do not use it as a base to party with other people. Fit in with host’s schedule. Don’t sleep in for hours. Don’t overstay your welcome.

Socialise

Make sure you spend time getting to know your host. If you’re just after free accommodation or a tour guide, you’ve got the wrong idea.

Xili’s tips where to stay in Panama City Travel networking etiquette

Zuly’s Backpackers

A tiny hostel with a friendly atmosphere. One of the best value and a good, central location.

· Calle Ricardo Arias 8 (00507 6605 4742, geocities.com/zulys_independent _backpacker/) dorm bed $7.70.

La Casa de Carmen

A small, relaxed B&B clean and full of colour. But make a reservation because it’s always full.

· Calle 1a de Carmen (+263 4366, lacasadecarmen.net) singles $27.

Luna’s Castle Hostel

New, huge and located in a charming part of the city, best for young and party-loving travellers.

· Calle 9a Casco Viejo (+262 1540, lunascastle.com) dorm bed $10.

 

Panama Travel: Authentic, budget and delicious: Casco Viejo´s Fish Market

 Panama, Casco Viejo
Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

Panama´s Fish Market rocks.  It is at the very entrance of Casco Viejo, just off Avenida Balboa. A white and light blue building with the Japanese flag and the Panamanian flag on the top of the building (the new fish market installations where a donation of the Japanese government). As you approach, the characteristic smell of fresh fish will hit you: don´t get discouraged. Block your nose, get in and run for the stairs into their restaurant. Or, for those who actually enjoy the distinctive smell, you can wander around and buy whatever you want, as the restaurant will cook it for you. The largest, best meals I´ve had in Panama has been with groups of friends and tons and tons of food from the downstairs fisheries. It is amazing all the stuff that can come out of one beautiful piece!

If you choose to go straight for the stairs, your menu options are very good as well. This particular restaurant has peruvian style food and they are proud of it, as they have already won some awards from the Peruvian Embassy.  We asked for a peruvian style lenguado ceviche (which is spicier than the normal one) and when the waiter brought it he said smiling: Who asked for the best ceviche in the world? I don´t know if it actually is, but is pretty good!

My other favorite there is the jalea. Fried dices of fish (they also do the jalea mixta which includes octopus and other seafood) surrounded with “pico de gallo” (chopped tomatoes, onions and herbs). They serve it with patacones (fried plantains) or yuca. The plate can serve for two or if you use it as entree everybody can take a bit. The picante sause (aji chombo) is really hot, use it carefully unless you are a professional.

Highly recommended: order your beer first. They have really cold beer, and you´ll love it. Order at least two rounds, as the one thing this place lacks is service speed. But if you are already into your second beer round, probably you won´t mind as much!

The fish market is one of the most authentic culinary experiences I know in Panama City. If you like fish, spice and authenticity… this is your next hangout!

Olympic News! First medal ever for Panama!!!

 Panama, Casco Viejo,
Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

I was at my office, trying to start my Monday as usual, when a huge crowd of kids came running and screaming… “Saladino! Saladino! Canguro! Canguro!”.  The crowd jumped away, singing and screaming Irving´s Saladino´s name. I suddenly realized, our Panamanian Kangaroo was supposed to jump this morning. I open the internet, and there it is!! he just won gold with an 8.34mt2 jump.

For most countries used to sending people to these competitions it is a good thing, but most of their habitants don´t think too much about it. I´m sure in the US people are very proud of Phelps and other athletes, and they should. I saw a picture of their leading female swimmer and I was truly intimidated by the powerful figure and sharp performance. But, even if things are never easy and I´m sure they spend a lot of time looking for economic support, truth is, they probably have 90% more support there and better trainning and equipment than we have ever had here.

And still Panama has produced some great sport figures such as Duran (the most famous at this point), the Valdes brothers, and Mariano Rivera. But whenever the Olympics came, the delegation was very thin. The athletes didn´t have (and still don´t) any money to get their trainners there, they had to get everything by themselves, usually their equipment was (and is) very old and worst of all (our esgrima girl almost couldn´t compete because her sword was too old and rusty. She had to buy one there), the funds from the institute of sports where to finance the trip of a bunch of bureocrats that had nothing to do and didn´t really care for the athletes themselves.

But perseverance is an incredible thing! This year, all of our athletes, despite their bad equipment, half trainning, lost baggage, no money, last minute scandals, all of them not only surpassed their personal marks, but managed to get re classified into better positions. But the big cherry on the pie was Irving Saladino, a talented guy from one of the poorest parts of Panama, Colon.  This province is the craddle of most of our athletes and sport figures. Knowing Colonenses (my best friend is from this province) this week will be a huge festivity. Irving got the first gold medal ever in an Olympic game for Panama by jumping the lenght of my office.

I´m sure tomorrow´s paper will have a wonderful big size poster of him at the front page and suddenly everyone will run to hug and kiss him. But this was not done in a day, so my respects go not only to himself but to his parents who supported him all the way and probably paid or raised funds for him. To all the athletes that managed to even get there in a display of perseverance and discipline. Congratulations!!!!

I hope the next one comes from Casco Viejo. They are surely practicing jumps right now!

New Business in Casco Viejo: Galería Vida opens up in Calle 4ta next to “Entre Pulgas”

 Panama, Casco Antiguo
Casco Viejo, San Felipe

Calle 4ta is getting artsy! Galería Vida opened at Casa Mendez, next to Entre Pulgas. They have a lovely mix of latin american high end handcrafts, especially from Mexico and Guatemala. Laurie, the owner and Casco Viejo neighbor has years of experience in working with indigenous communities and helping them develop high quality product to help support their communities. Her good eye, style and sense of humor are all around Galeria Vida (which means Life Gallery).

Congratulations!

Panama Paradise

Panama, Casco Viejo
Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

Yesterday I read an article about Panama and foreigners living and doing business here. It was a positive article with the experience of some foreigners who have made their lives and businesses in Panama work. As usual, the posts below showed a wide range of comments, but there was one that got my attention: a disappointed person remarked that Panama was not paradise and it had a list of all things he didn´t like. In my job as a real estate agent there is one and only one thing I am absolutely certain: expectations play a huge roll in the level of satisfaction of the client. This can certainly be applied to all aspects of our lives, as humans are constantly out looking for “paradise” in every little corner.

Now, the trick with this “paradise” problem is multiple. Notice I say “trick” because it is a trick. We trick ourselves into believing a place or a thing is “paradise”, and marketing specialists know this (as they are humans too) and use this tendency to make us fantasize and to get us to buy stuff. We, as clients know it, but we still fall for it. That´s the game, and I get the sense we like it.

But Paradise is a deceiving thing on both sides of the road. To begin with, Paradise means a lot of radically different things to a lot of people. In my closest dictionary, Paradise is a state of supreme happiness, bliss. It is also a place of extreme beauty, delight, or happiness. All of it, we know, lies in the eye of the beholder, which at the same time is pumped up or not by expectations. Not even religion can get it together on what is or should be Paradise. Somehow, people got it into their minds it was white beach and a sunny sky. That means tan beach ain´t paradise? I like tan beach. I like it more than white, frankly. And I like clouds, it is less hot and I feel less dehydrated. And rain is quite romantic.

Truth is that we have allowed ourselves to get wired in a way that paradise is a package of very defined things (which anyways change from culture to culture and from people to people) and when it doesn’t look, feel or taste like the magazine cover of our preference, then there is a problem. But the trick is that we know, as we also know models in magazines aren´t as beautiful when met in person(they do have skin marks, they are very skinny and some even have bad hair… but great bones!), that paradise simply doesn´t exist as perfection doesn´t exist. Like believing the woman (or man) we are marrying is “perfect” and then divorcing her (or him) on the grounds that you just “found out” he or she wasn´t. Hello???? It is all a fantasy to make us escape our reality for a while. But read it again: Paradise doesn´t exist. Reality, on the other hand, will lead you to long lasting, satisfying relationships.

Now, is Panama Paradise? Of course not! And you wouldn´t be able to name one country where Paradise actually is. As usual, the media creates the “hipe” by using those words to the point where they loose all meaning. In the past, words tended to be these valuable vehicles to convey important concepts that had some weight. When you gave your word it meant the world. No papers needed to be signed. With the extreme use of faaaabulous, wooonderful, paradise, fantastic, etc we have lost track of what they mean. Faabulous is the new pink or vanilla. And it is a shame, because some things are trully amazing, wonderful and fantastic or beautiful. But used without discretion just to overcome the “marketing noise” out there to get your product across it looses its own value and by the way hurts the same product you wanted to highlight.

We should start downsizing, even in our everyday conversations. Don´t mind the financial bubble, there is a language bubble crisis in modern society that is getting to affect our judgement about the world and is numbing us to the real great things that life and countries have to offer us. We should make a vow never to use the word “paradise” and use words like great, nice and enjoyable when there is really a cause for it.

Why? because this is the only way everyone wins. Think about it: if you scream “paradise” and someone buys on it, when they get there and it happens it rains too much, traffic is loud, it is too hot or any other thing, then both client and marketer end up in a bad spot. But if your speech is truthful and moderate, and it sets the right expectations, when the person buys he is satisfied and both parties end up in the right place.

For many years, we´ve had this notion that Caribbean countries (and make no mistake, Panama is a Caribbean country, I still don´t know why we are still in the Central America section) are paradise. White beaches, laid back population, a coconut and a palm. The hammock and piña colada life. But reality, as all realities, is made of different angles and the “simple life” is far from simple. Caribbean countries have wonderful beaches, most likely full of sand fleas, mosquitoes, etc. Nature is great until you get bit by something you can´t even pronounce. People are laid back, which means a heavy lazy vein is also present. They are happy people and love to party, I guess that is fine. But partying has it´s own set of negative things, as many would know very well. For every good thing there is a bad one, as every coin has two sides, and ignoring it is trying to cover the sun with the finger.

Everything is cheaper in Caribbean countries, Panama included, and I agree the country has streched this card too far, along with the tax heaven thing (you see! another concept of Paradise!). But expecting exactly the same service at the same level as you where at home but for half the price in a completely different culture is unrealistic. Basic economics tell you that if it is half the price is because there are hidden costs, and it is normal that there would be. Hidden costs are usually charged under the currency of time (things take longer to get done), effort (we are laid back, remember?) and cultural differences among other things.

Rabindranath Tagore once said: “If you cry for loosing the sun, your tears will prevent you from looking at the stars”. Panama isn´t paradise, but it is a great place to travel, live and invest in. It is a place on Earth, not on Heaven (wherever that is in your specific culture and religion). If you are setting up a business, you do have far less competition. It is hard work, don´t fool yourself. But you have the opportunity to do things and be an entrepreneur in ways that maybe your country wouldn´t allow for it anymore as it is so crowded and expensive. Panama may not have super white sand beaches everywhere and at the snaps of your fingers, but it does have two interesting coasts with wild geographies worth exploring. And if white sand is what you need, go to San Blas, Bocas or Pearl Islands, you´ll find it there along with Kuna Indians, afroantillian culture or a mix of both with a third party.

Not all Panamanians speak English, but Panama´s incredible diversity for the small country it is makes for an intriguing palette to explore, and even surprising that they all speak Spanish. Seven different indian tribes, a mix of Spanish, afroantillian, african, white, chinese, you name it! Service isn´t probably at the top level, but the country is learning fast. It is one of the easiest countries to travel to and to do tourism, as everything is so close. You can plan for beach, mountain and ethnic in a less than a week vacation or just relax on a fishing trip at really beautiful sites.

For a scientist, diversity is paradise. If so, then Panama is paradise. The one other strenght it has other than geographic location is diversity. In every aspect. Panama has a little bit of everything, and for those adventurous sould who enjoy exploring a petit store of curiosities, Panama is a good fit.

Since I have dedicated my life to a very specific part of Panama, Casco Viejo, I should make a disclaimer right away: Casco Viejo is not paradise. It is a 300 year old colonial site, where everything is mixed. From architecture (art deco side by side with caribbean, colonial, french, republican among others) to social (poor, middle class and rich), to lifestyles and ways of thinking. Restored and unrestored, ruins side by side with sites under construction.

Casco Viejo is the most down to earth community I know and that is where the true beauty lies. It is not fabulous in a “dinner topic” manner, but it is highly unusual and very special because it is so rare and somehow for those who get it, there is a profound visceral connection, no words needed. Here people care about people and the ones who have moved here and / or invested here enjoy building a community for others. This, in combination with the beautiful site itself, makes for the best you can hope for anywhere whether it is back home or not.

This morning, I woke up with a thought. I understand the deep need for people to constantly be looking for paradise and happiness. Aristoteles said that was mankind´s only mission, and certainly mine. But the truth is that if anywhere, paradise is within ourselves. Once we know that, then the world is our playground and is important to see things for what they are, not judge them on how the magazine cover looks like. Those are made to shine on our faces and trigger “buy, buy, buy” instinct. Be curious, don´t expect anything. This is not only with Panama, this applies everywhere. With open eyes, you´ll be able to enjoy both the sun and the everlasting beauty of a night full of stars.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Panama News: $8million for Technology and Innovation Awards and COPA becomes a trainning hub for air pilots of the Region

 Panama, Casco Viejo
Casco Antiguo, San Felipe

Before I worked at the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute I spent a year (or two?) at Senacyt which is Panama´s version of a Ministry of Technology. While working at their Public Relations department, I had a global overview of the institution´s programs, which always amazed me. Panama isn´t regarded as a high- tech country, and if you ask anyone (inside or outside Panama) on how techy our government is they would probably give you a blank look.

But Senacyt (Secretaria Nacional de Ciencia y Tecnología) was already administrating incredible programs, providing internet in schools for places as remote as Darien or running DNA laboratories and setting up programs to involve schools on science and innovation. And so much more and bizarre I couldn´t even start to figure it out. But I have to admit, they don´t really reach out to the media, I guess the usual lack of funds.

However, (and knowing the usual lack of funds issue it amazed me) I opened today´s newspaper (La Prensa, page 47A) and there it was, they are launching their 4th Technology and Innovation Awards with an amazing budget of 8 million dollars to distribute between the winners. Wao. For Panama that is a huge and radical step forward and an enormous effort to close the technology gap. Something is really changing from inside out. The categories involve: business innovation, research and development, science against poverty, incentives to sciente and technology activiites and new initiatives from the tech data base Panama Resuelve.

According to the note, since 2005 they have already implemented 14.1 million dollars on diferent projects, but what they are looking for is to increase Panama´s competitivity through science and (more importantly) innovation. And just to sweeten the deal, the category with the biggest award is business innovation with a top award of $200,000 financed by the World Bank.

Between Senacyt and the City of Knowledge, a recently approved e commerce law and an increasing government effort to digitalize their procedures Panama is on the right track.

What does that have to do with Casco Viejo? absolutely nothing. Although they are located 15 minutes away!

By the way and speaking of technology, COPA  (Panama´s main international airline) also maid an announcement today. They inaugurated their first plane simulator. Aparently it is the first equipment of this sort in Latin America and it simulates the brazilian Embraer 190 airplane. It is also located in City of Knowledge.

This simulator has been designed to run at least 7000 flight hours and will be a valuable trainning resource, especially for local pilots which had to travel to Canada to get proper trainning. By installing this simulator, now COPA will be a trainning Hub for the region. Already Mexico will start to bring pilots and so is Ecuador.  The Embraer 190 is COPA´s second simulator. The first one is the Boeing 737.

All this 15 minutes away from a 300 year old city. Isn´t it a crazy world?