Historic City Cleans Up

For a while, garbage has been one of Casco Antiguo´s main challenges. The lack of education in the local community, along with the few resources of the City´s garbage department has been a negative combination.

During the last 10 years, Casco Antiguo has slowly gone through a revitalization process that has brought new people into the mix. This year, having a small critical mass of new residents, Casco Antiguo saw the birth of a community NGO called AVACA (the Casco Antiguo Friends and Residents Association, in Spanish) which has started to tackle the most important issues, garbage being in the top three.

This Sunday, the first public event of AVACA took place at Casco Antiguo. It was burning hot, but a cheerful crowd made it to the parking lot of the National Theatre, grabbed their tools and attacked the nearby beaches.

More…..

Be Organic, Build With Bones

Everyone has been trying to figure out how to be greener than the neighbor. The web is packed with green this and green that, and advises on “how to go back to basics”. Well, in Casco Antiguo (Panama) we did just that…and looks great!

One of Panama´s icons has been under restoration for the last year and finally we can see the results coming along.  It has a wonderful internal courtyard, with a classic Spanish Colonial design and feel. A big carpet of pebble stones covering it with designs in white. Looking closer, you realize the “white pebbles” are not pebbles at all, but bones! Hundreds of cow bones stuck in the ground. According to the historic and archeological research this is exactly how it was done in those days. My dog,  for once,  had a positive opinion on how the design smelled.

Bikinis under Panama´s Presidential Palace

Under the “Only in Panama” category….

Low tide is a blessing in Casco Viejo. Suddenly, pockets of beaches pop up, and access to others open. Yesterday (or was it the day before?) I was walking my little (or not so little!) Chispa around and realized it was low – low tide. So we went down the beach at Calle 1era, in front of the parking spaces next to the National Theatre, and kept walking under the San Francisco de Asis Church towards the current Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Then I continued to walk, and another beach was there, the one behind the Presidential Palace. They all connect going down to Terraplen! boy, I´m looking forward for the cleaning of the bay to be complete (another 5 years!)… it was nice down there.

Only a presidential policeman who sort of tried to tell me that I couldn´t pass. But since I was in my “teacher” mood (I usually am when walking Chispa, you know like “no, don´t do this… yes, good girl…giving instructions) I told him that the beach by the Panamanian Constitution is public and that the President is free to put all the guards he wants, but can´t declare any beach private.  So, actually, I am free to go there with my bikini and tan under the Presidential Palace.  He smiled and let me be with my dog around…

Presidential Elections at Casco Viejo, Panama

In many countries, Presidential elections tend to be crazy. Here, it is the most boring day of the year (well… ever since we got our democracy back in 1989).  The fun part is the days before it.  This year, it fell coincidentally on a long weekend, as May 1st was Friday… but because of the elections, sales and consumption of alcohol was going to be restricted for both Saturday and Sunday. So every street in Casco Viejo had something going on Friday.

It was also the first true winter weekend, a lot of rain poured, so thousands and thousands of bugs, crazy size ants (queens and males finally coming out of the ground to mate and die the next morning) made their annual appearance, announcing the change of the season. Birds went nuts feeding on them, we even saw a big hawk standing at one of the balconies choosing its next meal, Casco Viejo “other neighbors” where feeling the call of nature. It was fascinating, like being in a jungle!

Well, not too far away, political party flags where hung on balconies, people woke up really early on Sunday dressed either with their best dresses or with political TShirts.  I thought this also ressembled nature´s dance, as often birds and other animals change color to attract their mates. Like bees, everone went to the schools to vote. Unlike other countries, everyone in Panama votes.  Election day is always a Sunday, and the political parties usually help with transportation.  Especially in the interior of the country, transportation is arranged. On election sunday, every bus, taxi, canue and mule is hired to get people to vote. This year, they made it possible for Panamanians abroad to vote and also for people in jail.   Last elections 76% of Panamanians with right to vote, voted.  Not sure what the number is for this year, but probably will be more.

The process is so easy and fluent, people tend to be really nice and take their task seriously. I was glad to see so many people from the neighborhood taking their role with total devotion.

Our elections are not done electronically.  Privacy during the elections is considered sacred, and our only weapon in times of need. We won´t even use electronic devices for our Lottery.  That too falls into the sacred category, by the way.  Usually they give you four papers in order to vote for each category, and they are counted manually.  The judges, with witnesses from every party, count at the end and they write down the results in an Acta. Then, in front of everyone, they burn the papers at the school patios. So there is no re count possibilites.  “Back in the days” (meaning in the Noriega times and even before) here was where the action happened. The votes where “stolen” …. literally. In order to protect the votes, the boxes with the papers inside where carried outside the school into people´s homes to protect it, as it was a normal cheating strategy to count “incorrectly” and put whatever number at the Acta.  Even though times have changed, the seriousness in the faces of those who have the responsibility of guarding our votes tell me there must be a memory of those times somewhere ingrained in their brains.

In Panama, you only have a chance to vote until 4 p.m.  Results are known around 6 p.m. but they confirm it no later than 7 p.m. Definately you know who won before 8 p.m.

This year, and for the first time after the invasion, a candidate won for over 50%.  Ricardo Martinelly won with a very big 60% product of his tenacity (he has run in two different campaigns now), his marketing (his slogan “Los Locos somos Más” was a bit unorthodox, but catchy) and the political alliance he was able to put together with the other oposition parties. But I feel most people, after the scandals of corruption and missmanagement of the current government, just aligned themselves against it, and Martinelli was the candidate that had the most chance of winning. Therefore, Balbina Herrera, the candidate for the government party (PRD) lost with a 37%.

So, what should be expected from Martinelli? If anything, Martinelli´s campaign has shown a creative team, capable of thinking outside the box and being able to work with competitors for a goal. If Ricardo Martinelli keeps these qualities during his government, then we should be on a good track. Buy only time will tell.

Budget and Fun: Panama´s lifestyle

National Theatre, Panama

Visit a world heritage site second only to Jurassic Park for $300 or less. Or just hike around the numerous jungles, caves and lake areas of the Panama Canal either for free or for $35 on a guided group.  Stroll at the Casco Antiguo Flea Market and end up at a free theatre play at the Anita Villalaz theatre. This is what Panama has to offer for the ones who are ready to take things easy.

For example… Here is the calendar of events for this month…

Music, Theatre, Art:

May 13th: BDB Duet in Concert at National Theatre. Spanish pianists Maria José de bustos Yuste and María José Barandiaran Rodrigálvarez playing with Panama´s National Orchestra. Free entrance! you can email: emb.panama.ofc@maec.es

May 13th to 30th: Theatre play at the Anita Villalaz at Plaza Francia. “Foto de Señoritas y Exclusas” (photos of ladies and the Canal Locks). Phone: 6523-0543. Tickets at Allegro and Argosy.

Until May 5th: “New Moon” art show by Mariana Lleonart Castro at INAC´s art gallery (Paseo Las Bovedas).

May 10th: Flea Market at Plaza Catedral, San Felipe.

Business News:

May 6th: Soft opening of “Tomato” restaurant at Calle 4ta! Fresh Salads, soups and pizza.

Eco Trips: great outdoor experiences!

May 8th to 10th: tour to Coiba Island, Panama´s “Jurassik Park” and UNESCO site. Join for $200 or $250 per person. Includes: lodging at camping site, food, drinks and snorkeling equipment. Call: 970-0239

May 9th: Trip to Bastimentos Island at Bocas del Toro. $175. More info: 6687-2047

May 17th: Hiking at Lake Madden, Canal jungle. $25 per person, including transportation. Ph. 6747-0046 or www.clubecoaventura.com

May 24th: Hiking at Camino de Cruces. This is the old trail that the Spanish used to take to cross merchandise from the Caribbean to the old city of Panama. Mules would go through it loaded with gold and at some point they would change to boats at the Chagres River. Cost: $35. Includes: guide, transportation, snacks, boat and event TShirt. Info: www.ecoviajerospanama.com

May 24th: Underground tour to the caves of Bayano lake (also at the Panama Canal area). More info at: 261-5043

May 31st: Tour at Chagres river, kayaking. More info at: www.panamaoutdoors.com

Panama´s mega investments continue… recent photos

Panama mega investments are going forward full steam ahead. With the Presidential elections coming up next week, the current President Martin Torrijos Espino is eager to cut the ribbons and inaugurate it. Check out this recent aerial photo showing the big park extending through the coast.  This long strip of green connects “modern Panama” with the old colonial city of Casco Antiguo.

The mega green park will change Panama´s quality of lifestyle

Budget and Romantic: 10 Great things about Casco Antiguo

Casco Antiguo Santo Domingo Beach

1. You can walk everywhere.  And if you are entrepreneurial, you can even set up your business here and forget about the car almost all week round.
2. Plenty of choices on restaurants, more coming on bars (all at walking distance)
3. When walking around, most likely you´ll end up saying Hi to at least five people in the street.
4. You can volunteer in different areas, from urban agriculture to art workshops for local children.
5. Free concerts and cultural activities in general everywhere, from Jazz Fest to balcony theatre at Plaza Herrera
6. The beach and surrounding water views: it is a great place to walk around. Someday soon it will be clean enough to get in there, although most locals already do!
7. People are nice to each other, especially the “bien cuidaos”
8. Music in every corner. Sometimes too loud! but I know now that when it isn´t there I miss it (or immediately think there is something wrong in the picture)
9. Avenida Central and Salsipuedes at a few steps away. To walk around Salsipuedes, find really weird stuff no one has anymore and bargain.
10. The art of strolling around hand in hand with your loved one. Nothing like sharing a $0.50 raspao at Las Bovedas (lots of sugar!) while enjoying the beautiful sunset.

Panama´s Macro Infrastructure Investment at Full Speed

With Presidential elections coming up in May, Panama´s current government seems to have given green light to speed things up. Major projects like the expansion of the Panama Canal and the Cinta Costera seem to be moving faster each day. The Cinta Costera,  even if not fully finished, has already started to wear it´s green clothes: palms, bushes and trees are already planted, ready to inaugurate.

For Casco Viejo, Panama City´s colonial quarter and end tip of the Cinta Costera, it is all good news. On this side of the cinta, the new pipes for the sewer treatment are being placed. Soon, the Cinta Costera´s park will touch Casco Antiguo nearby the Mercado del Marisco (Fish Market) allowing direct access to a fantastic outdoors area.

For Casco Antiguo residentes, this will be an added plus to their lifestyles. Already living in a 300 year old colonial city with the human scale of a small town but embedded 10 minutes away from modern Panama, residents of Casco Viejo have only to walk two minutes to get to a beach. As the Bay cleanning project advances, they´ll be  the first ones to benefit from it´s surf spot at the point of Las Bovedas.  Already a popular surf point for locals, as the current female surf champion Samantha lives in San Felipe and surfs there regularly.

With the Cinta Costera, they will now have a fantastic strech of park for outdoors activities,  everything within ten minutes walking.

As traffic and cost of living raises, Casco Viejo is probably one of the few places in Panama that offers bits of city and town living at the same time, no car necessary, unless you want to explore the jungle or to travel to the country side.  This is making it attractive to a younger profile who is not finding any exciting options at their home countries. The United States alone, announced over an 8% unemployment rate.  Moving oversees to start a new business or just to keep a low profile seems to be getting more popular along young professionals.

Cheap, Fun and Eco Friendly: Nature trips in Panama with Local Clubs

Who said you have to pay gazillion dollars to enjoy nature? One of the things I enjoy living here is that I can choose from a range of activities, joining local clubs that regularly go to the unexplored corners of Panama, just for fun. The charge is usually to cover the guide and gas. Each case is different, so call, write & ask.

The best way to enjoy these things is to stay in Casco Antiguo, since is 15 minutes away from the ex Canal Zone (meaning 15 minutes away from Gatun Lake where you can go fishing or Parque Soberanía and Metropolitano, which are primary and secundary forests). Also you are very close to rappel sites like Calzada Larga or simply to the interior if you are planning to hike Chame or Capira. Also, we are 15 minutes away from the Panama´s internal airport, so flying to Chiriquí is an easy ride to the airport and an hour flight to the far corner of the country.

And when you come back, you have all the charm of the colonial city where you can rest and recover!

Since most of these activities are organized locally, most of them don´t have emails. Remember that to call Panama, you must dial 507 if you are outside. Once you are in Panama, it isn´t necessary.

Rappel at Calzada Larga:
Sunday March 29th. At Arco Rocoso. Cost $40. Call 6687-2047

Trip to Coiba Island:
March 4 and 5th. There are only 5 spaces left! Hour: 7 a.m. More info at: www.panamaoutdoors.com

Kayak tour at Chagres River:
March 5th. 7 a.m. Information: 261-5043

Trip to Pearl Islands:
April 2nd to 5th. From Club Excursionistas del Istmo. Call: 393-8956

Cayuco Race, Ocean to Ocean:
April 3, 4, 5th by the Club de Remos Balboa. Email them at: creba.office@cayucorace.org

Trip to Baru Volcano:
(this is one I´ve been longing to do myself!)
April 10th to 12th. $65 at Chiriquí. Call 6524-2802

Cinta Costera reaching Casco Antiguo, Panama

The Cinta Costera is one of Panama´s mega projects for 2009 and 2010. This huge strip aims to recover Panama City´s green landscape by creating a big park  at its bay coast while adding extra traffic lanes and covering the brand new sewer system that will clean the bay and hopefully make it suitable to be used in the next five years.

The project has been given priority in all fronts, but not exempt from controversy, as it has been under the public eye for several charges of corruption and lack of transparency on the design and management of funds.

Despite of all the scandals, the Cinta Costera keeps going on. The first trees have been planted, the pipes for the sewer system have been put in place, and now they are starting to prepare Panama´s historic district called Casco Antiguo to receive the first segments of pipes that will finish the sewer line and hook it to the treatment plants.

Many of the oposers to the Cinta mention the lack of transparency in the design, which included several parks at the beginning of its presentation and slowly reduced it giving up space for parking and cement areas.   While this might be true, there is no disagreement that cleanning the bay and getting the sewer system up to date with Panama´s current growth will alone stand up as an enormous advantage.

For Casco Viejo, as it is locally known, the Cinta Costera is far more than a big park with traffic lanes.  It will not only make access to the Casco easier, but bring several additional benefits to the current Casco Antiguo residents lifestyle.   The Cinta Costera would bring a long park at walking distance suitable for running, exercise and other outdoors activities, but as the only part of Panama City that has beach, it will also make them usable and hopefully a beach culture will reborn.

Currently, beaches at Casco Antiguo are it´s most guarded secret. Used only by locals,  its tan sand and easy to get access pockets around the peninsula makes it a great spot to enjoy weekends.  It even has a small surfing spot, where the current Panama female Champion known as Samantha learned how to surf.  As most Panamanians who lived in Casco Viejo in the 50´s remember fondly, this was a wonderful part of their lives.  Now, their sons and grandsons will be able to go back and enjoy it.